L28 bored to a 3.0L
04-26-2011, 12:01 PM
#51
Intrawebz Wizard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Vernal, UT
Posts: 3,176
If it was me, I would get a P90 head, deck it about .080 install the 280Z valves (which are .080 longer) Shim up the towers and springs and drop that on an engine with flattops.
That way you have a high CR, A high flowing head and a head that helps reduce pinging buy quenching the air/fuel mix into the spark plug
That way you have a high CR, A high flowing head and a head that helps reduce pinging buy quenching the air/fuel mix into the spark plug
04-26-2011, 12:22 PM
#52
so from what i've been reading since i have flat tops in my block its a california z. is this correct? because i've read a couple different forums that have said n47 head is better than the p79 head for cr. im so confused on which is the "best" way to go for the most efficient street daily driver with med. power. i also been told the p79 head has way better flow than a n47 but the n47 will give me a higher cr with the flat tops.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-s30-forums-9/im-newb-here-would-appreciate-some-help-my-build-32481/
Good reads on L Heads:
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm
http://datsunzgarage.com/p79/
http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm
http://datsunzgarage.com/p79/
http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/
04-26-2011, 03:49 PM
#53
Ok. So i spoke to a well known machine shop around here and found that the old timer there knows these heads very well. So i guess i need to know for sure... .070" shave off the head...and .007" cam tower shims? port and polish(mild) and he has a flow bench and will work with me because i work here at toyota in carson and we send him all the work so he is going to cut me a huge break. what else do i need to tell him exactly do get this done?
You'd need the entire front clip, and do a lot of fab work.
04-27-2011, 09:55 PM
#58
West Coast!
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Corona,CA
Posts: 1,956
04-27-2011, 10:26 PM
#59
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
excuse me sir but i begg to differ here is proof: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...id=38:biggrin:
04-27-2011, 10:32 PM
#60
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
Under $7k is easy if you had a vg or RB motor. Just swap the rear section of the trans with an AWD RB trans, make driveshafts, convert to the lower half of an RB oil pan with the diff in it, convert to R32 front spindles and have the front stub aces shortened. It's easily done for under $7k if you do the fab work yourself and source parts and have a reliable machinist. Hell most 240sx guys do it for less then $3k.
04-28-2011, 10:41 AM
#62
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Skyli...Q5fAccessories
04-28-2011, 11:08 AM
#64
LOL ok..so back to the topic at hand....it would be to my benefit to get my orig p79 head machined and try to find cheap replacement parts i.e.(valves, springs, keepers,seals, etc.)?
05-01-2011, 01:25 PM
#71
i see where your coming from but finding the time to pull the head and everything off the parts z is the problem. the parts z is at my moms and that is about 45min drive. i have a very limited supply of tools...no air and not to mention i would be working in the dirt and wind the enitre time.
05-04-2013, 01:12 PM
#73
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern California
Posts: 153
Rebuild advise
OK. thank you. i might be selling my xb today so i will have about 3k extra in pocket. hopefully he isnt too expensive to do my head and shipping isnt a killer. I still need to buy 2 fenders and poss. a rr quater panel. rust is a killer lol. if i have him shave .070 off i can get a kit from msa for the shims..would that be just as good? and if i do shave the head and shim it will that be all i need to do and just bolt everythig back up and run it?
Last edited by Zdon; 05-04-2013 at 01:14 PM.
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