7d82adz

83 280zxt. 5spd

Go to my car in storage today, brought with me a new les schwab battery I bought out west.. Little did I know that the posts are switched in comparison to the napa battery I use to have in it. As soon as I touched the terminals with the car cables I knew it wasnt right, it sparked and my fusible link smoked a little.. only was connected for 1 second as it surprised me and i removed the connection.

I then fastened it the correct way and tried to start.. nothing.. only a click sound near the passenger side fuse panel.

So I checked my inside passenger fuse panel and only the radio fuse blew. I took out a fuse that was same amp outve what wasnt labeled on the panel.. (bottom right corner). and put that into the radio fuse spot.. still nothing and only a click sound when I try and start.

The dash light "sensor" in the top right is illuminated now.

Il buy a new fuseable link although i did remove the existing one and could feel it wasnt burnt inside, but it might still b damaged.. also il get another 10amp for the fuse panel although i dont think thats where my issue is.

Really upset with myself, and could use some help.. thankyou.

NismoPick

I can't believe how common this is becoming... Seems like almost once a week I hear about someone lighting up a car because they weren't paying attention. Just the other day I had a lady neighbor thinking she had to take the battery out to jump start the car... reversed the jumpers and POOF! Smoke galore, tow job, and $500 later she got the car back. The fusible links will indeed burn when reverse jumping the car, or installing the battery in reverse (as they should, to protect the car's electronics). Replace the fusible links. You may also have toasted the ecu. Pull the ecu down from the kick panel and turn the key to ON. The green LED inside the inspection hole should light up. If not, the fusible link is toast. If it does, and still won't start, you toasted the ecu.

7d82adz

Thankyou Nismopick..

You are always very helpful, I will replace the fusable links.. I never would of known there is a inspection hole to see a light on the ecu. Luckily i bought a spare ecu off a running 83 zxt that i havent tried out yet..

I bought this car couple years ago with a problem of no power and carbon fouling out plugs. I parked it this fall with the issue.. now I got more problems due to not being careful.. I deserve a good whack on the head too.

Is there more than 1 fusable link i should replace? Only 1 smoked a little when I connected things backwards.

WildmaN

Been there and done that with fusible links. Although I never have hooked a battery backwards. lol All aside, yeah just check your fusible links, there is a small rectangular black box on the passenger side fender. Pull one at a time, and inspect them for burnt or damaged wires. Then replace them one at a time. You will probably have to get creative like I did in the past. And use links from different makes of cars. I remember I used Chrysler ones before on my '81 slicktop. Anyway get all the links fixed, then if there is no change look into what NismoPick said to do . Good luck man.

7d82adz

thanks wildman.. Im eager to work on it and look into it soon as i can get back to my storage area. I plan on bringing some fuses and a handful of fusable links and a good ecu with me. All i want is to get it started so I can load it on a trailer and bring it intown to my garage.. Otherwise Il have to round up some pushers. haha

7d82adz

OK so yesterday I tried a few things.. still no luck :/

I checked all my fuses, and replaced the fuseable link. Pulled down the ecu, and put car to "on"... the ecu indicator light was solid green.

Go to start and it just clicks once i try and start it. It sounds like its something clicking under the dash by the passenger side. On the dash itself.. sensor warning light is illuminated.

I then changed out my ecu to a different one I bought off someone who pulled it outve a perfectly running 83zxt.. also lit up solid green and gave me same symptoms.. (clicking sound down under passenger side of dash)

I pulled off the plastic covers and tried to determine what component is clicking but couldnt pinpoint it.

What could I have damaged thats preventing the engine from turning over/starting up?

NismoPick

Is your fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition on / try to start it?
And the sensor light is the "change the o2 sensor at 30k miles" reminder light. There is a green with yellow stripe wire at the passenger kick panel that should be disconnected when the o2 sensor is changed. I'm guessing you plugged it back in while trouble shooting?

7d82adz

The fuel pump does kick on when the key is turned on. Go to crank the engine and it just clicks. That sensor imdicator never has illuminated until i connected things backwards. When i changed ecus there was no difference asides the fuel pump sounding less powerful. The whine of it was a lower sound. My battery is fully charged so i havent a clue why the engine wont turn over.. maybe my starter died out? Could i jump the starter directly from battery?

NismoPick

Ah... I don't think I previously understood that the starter isn't engaging at all. Yes, you can jump the starter. Use a few feet of spare wire, attach one end to the starter signal spade connecter (remove yellow wire), and tap the other end to battery + terminal (or a better setup would be a push button inline with the wire). Make sure your car is in neutral. Make sure your + battery cable isn't fried.

Bravenewme

Well, here's another one that needs clunked on the head. I let someone provide a jump for me- I should have double checked the terminal placement.
The ones on my car were correct, but reversed on the other car. Nothing appeared to happen. Did get them switched and my battery was taking the charge but had a hard time turning over. Took battery to get checked- need a new one. Still no start. Did see the comment from Nismo about the fuel pump- mine is not cycling up for start- what in specific should I be checking?
I can turn the ignition to 'on' but it does not advance to start as well...

Was checking the FSM, don't see a section on electrics...
Thanks in advance-
Mechanically inclined but not a mechanic...

7d82adz

I would personally just turn the car to the on position and go check your terminals to see if you have power down underneath your car with a tester.. if you have power to the pump it should kick on before startup to prepressurize things.. if it makes no noise and does nothing with power its probably bad.. just my 2 cents lol.

7d82adz

So back to my 280zxt project.. been working on my 71 240z alot.. got entire interior redone after stripping most things outve my rusty 72 parts car...

as far as the 83 zxt its now running again!! had a few bad fuseable links.. changed them and its started.. running on mixture of old fuel with klotz booster additive.. i think i however should drain the fuel system bc last time it had a gas fill, was back when the car ran good in 2012.. The car also has stuck turbo, hence why it got parked..looks like best way to remove that would be to unbolt the intake mani... I have a cheap ebay t3/t4 turbo a/r50 compressor. 63exhaust.

Am i going to need a bunch of other aftermarket parts to safely run this?? I was thinking atleast a intercooler would help alot since the car doesnt even has one at all. but is it a must have?.. what are my must haves in order to run this t3/t4?

Ive determined my 240 is much more work than i expected ( has bad floors and rails and brakes) ...so ive now switched my attention back to this zxt.. esp since it has a/c and its now 90 degress alot lately..

any help/input/ advice is most greatly appreciated!!!!

NismoPick

It's sixes really. If the turbocharger has never been removed, there are retainer clips on the 17mm manifold flange nuts that are a pain to bend open. The EGR pipe will likely be rust-welded together, as well as the downpipe coupler. So in this case it would actually be easier to remove the manifolds, and replace the studs and gasket at the same time.

You'll need a new way to attach the AFM to the turbocharger, and most likely a new downpipe depending on what turbo you got.

Yes, a quality intercooler is a great investment, especially above 10psi.

Depending on the turbocharger, the compressor housing may hit the side of the exhaust manifold. My Garrett T3/T4 just barely fits, but others have had to grind the exhaust manifold or side of the turbocharger housing.

Mine:

7d82adz

im so excited for this car.. lol I wrestled with the jpipe other day.. took a couple hours and alot of swear words.. got that off.. then spun the exhaust side of the shaft and it spins/feels ok.. not stuck.. but i can grab it decently and give it a flick and theres alot of resistance and stops as soon as i let go..

What is the metal tubing that connects to the manifold and jpipe? that was my biggest struggle to try and loosen with a wrench.. finally gave up and used a sawzall and cut the dang thing so i could drop the jpipe.

My stock turbo was removed and put back on a few years ago.. not sure why, but someone did something.. ( probly why i have turbo problem now).. but thankfully im hoping it comes off easier without too much bonding from time.

Haha my t3/t4 doesnt even have a brand.. just says "turbocharger" "t3/t4"
was previously ran on a zxt though. Not sure how i will fab up the exhaust for it when the time comes..what about wastegate/bov? the t3/t4 doesnt have one on it.. its just a intake and exhaust compressor as it sits right now..

whats the best way to dump the gas out? disconnect a line near fuel pump was my idea as i didnt see a drain bolt like on the s30 tanks.

I really want a intercooler, but dont want a pos "universal" one where every piece needs modifiying or cutting... has anyone found one available to buy where it fit nicely without having it be a jigsaw puzzle?..

sorry so many questions.. first time messing around with a turbo car.. just trying to be carefull and do the best I can.. thankyou for all the help thus far!