I'm preparing to wire a new stereo into my ZX and was wondering if anyone knows which wire is which. I don't need to know the speaker leads since I'll be hooking up an amp, but I do need to know which color is: ground, switched power, constant backup power, power antenna, etc. Any assistance is appreciated, thanks!

 

What year?

 

It's an '82. My Haynes only shows me how to remove the stock stereo, not what each wire is, unfortunately.

 

I found this a minute ago,but you can also try my gallery,I have a few diagrams in there as well if this one doesn't match.

Constant 12V+ Red/Black
Switched 12V+ Blue
Ground n/a
Illumination Red/Yellow
Dimmer n/a


Left Front (+) Blue/White
Left Front (-) Blue/Yellow
Right Front (+) Brown
Right Front (-) Brown/White

Left Rear (+) Red
Left Rear (-) Green
Right Rear (+) Blue
Right Rear (-) Pink

 

Found this too.(In case none of the diagrams I have match)

The factory plug has been cut in my car! How do I make sense out of all of these wires?


Check the case of the current radio for a sticker identifying color codes and functions of the factory harness.

With a multimeter (and a little patience), the functions can be tested. It may be helpful to label the wires as you identify them to avoid confusion. Test in the following order:

With the vehicle off and the multimeter set for DC voltage (15-20 volt range), connect the Black probe directly to a good chassis ground point.
Fan out the wires (without letting them touch chassis ground) and test each one with the Red probe.
If your vehicle is mid-80s or newer, you should find one wire that reads 12 volts.
This is your Constant 12 Volt/Memory Power wire.
Turn your ignition switch to the accessory position, and repeat the test on the remaining wires.
You should find a second wire that now reads 12 volts. If this wire reads 0 volts when you turn off the ignition, you have located your Accessory 12 Volt Power wire.
Turn on your parking lights and test the remaining wires.
This should reveal one (or two) wires now reading 12 volts. If you find two, see which one varies voltage when you adjust the dash light dimmer.
This will identify the Dimmer wire.
The remaining wire is your Illumination wire. Most receivers won't need either one of these leads, in which case you can tape them off individually.
Set the multimeter to test RESISTANCE (OHMS) with the Black probe still connected to a good chassis ground point.
With the ignition switch off, check the remaining wires for one that reads no resistance to ground.
This is the Chassis Ground wire.
You can ground your new receiver to this wire, or ground it directly to the chassis of the vehicle (using an existing bolt or screw in the firewall).
Since you have already identified all hot wires, it is time to test for the speaker leads. These will typically be 8 wires and can be checked using the BATTERY POP TEST.
If you are also replacing your speakers, you could identify the speaker leads by comparing to the color codes of the leads that you find at the speaker locations. If you do not have color codes for the speaker wires, then you can determine polarity using the original speaker and the battery pop test. "Pop" the speaker with the battery, taking note of which end of the battery is going to which terminal on the speaker. If the speaker cone moves away from the magnet, then the positive end of the battery is going to the positive terminal of the speaker. If the speaker cone moves towards the magnet, then the positive end of the battery is going to the negative terminal of the speaker.
If your vehicle has a motorized power antenna, you should have a wire left over.
Since it is difficult to test this lead, you may want to reference the power harness at the antenna itself to compare color codes. If you are still not sure, then you can use a 1-amp quick-blow fuse. Turn the ignition on, then take the fuse and hold it to the end of the wire that you believe to be the power antenna wire. Hold the other end of the fuse to the power antenna remote of the stereo. If the antenna goes up, go ahead and connect the wire directly to the antenna remote wire. If the fuse blows, check for another power antenna wire in the dash.
This will identify the Power Antenna / Remote Turn-on wire.
You have identified all of the required wires for your new receiver! If there are any remaining cut wires in your dash, just tape them up individually so that they can not touch each other or ground out on metal.



Hope this helps.

 

Hey, thanks! ^__^ While we're on the subject of stereo, can you tell me if 6.5" speakers fit behind the seat without cutting, or if the holes were meant for 5.25"?

 

your gonna have to cut ... 6,5s wont work... if you need help with your stereo ican help you hook it up.. just need a light tester... i hooked up my own stereo and own alarm..

 

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'll be able to manage. Now I gotta decide whether it's worth cutting out a bigger hole to fit the 6.5"'s....

 

If you really want the sixes to fit in those holes you're either gonna have to cut,(I wouldn't suggest it),or make an adapter plate out of MDF or something.

 

Hm, I think I'll just stick with the 5.25" size. Man, I just wish they did a better job on the acoustics of the speakers. I mean, c'mon, a "left"-front speaker in the center?? And rear speakers aimed at your ***? (better for subs than full range speakers)

 

Nothing a little custom fiberglass wouldn't solve.

 

I thought the factory speakers were 6"
I have a 2+2 280ZX which I think are the same rear speakers. In my car I put in 6.25" and just re-drilled mounting holes. I did not have to cut any space out for the magnet or anything. maybe I got lucky.

 

Yeah, measuring the diameter of the hole does look a lot like a 6.5" speaker hole. The stereo place I went to get my alarm installed took a look and said 6.5" too. But when I looked in this one stereo applications guide book, it said 4" up front and 5.25" in the rear. I wish I had a spare 6.5" speaker handy to check for sure.

 

One car stereo shop I've been to said the difference between a 5.5" speaker and a 6.5" speaker is not exactly one inch. Each manufacturer has different methods of measuring the speakers. He said in most cases, a 6.0 to 6.5 round speaker hole is interchangable.

Actually, a friend of mine cut the upper and lower portions of the opening in his ZX 2+2 and mounted 6x9 speakers back there behind the stock plastic grill. You wouldn't know they were in there with the stock panels in place.

 

I don't know if this is the case with anyone else's Z, as mine had an aftermarket stereo when I got her ...
The rear speakers looked about 5.25" mounted in an angled plastic housing, the housing looks to be about 6" ... I'll go measure to be sure.
I figured my Infinity Reference 6.5" full-range's would work, but unfortunately not, so I'll be covering the holes, and mounting the pair in a full-width box behind the rear seats, as well as a Kicker 10" in a little while. The box will also hold the amps for the sub and speakers, possibly a capacitor as well, just to save the alternator. I'll also figure out how to mount a couple 4" full-range Infinity's in the doors (with custom panels, of course ...).

 

I took a spare 6.5" speaker and put it in the hole and not only did it fit without cutting, but the hole actually seems a tad too big for it, such that it's not a complete seal. As far as I can tell, the hole was not enlarged or cut out. I may have to seek out an "oversized" 6.5" that many high-end stereo companies make.