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Air Conditioning swap
So the A/C unit in my ZX is depleted, and my mechanic was telling me about upgrading the system to a newer system, but it requires changing the entire A/C system, costing about $1500, anybody know more about this?
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Search: R134A
$1500? Find a new mechanic... you can buy a retrofit kit for $40 from your local parts store. |
I "upgraded" mine at home in about 15 min with $30 :biggrin: its not that hard lol
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hmm interesting, i'll look into it
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ac depleted?
if you mean it leaked all the r-12 out any local ac residential distributor sell hot shot r-12 in can's or you can just install r-134 freon with retrofit kit to place onyour service valves
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Don't you need a dryer, etc to convert? Anyone have a link to the kits?
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Originally Posted by FricFrac
(Post 293585)
Don't you need a dryer, etc to convert?
Blue said he's been running R134a in his completely stock system for a while now... others on HBZ have said the same. The said "reason" to change the drier is due to the compounds in the R12 drier not being compatible w/ R134a. Kits are available at any parts store for $25-$50. Not sure about in Canada as I don't know if R12 has been outlawed there as it has here in the US. |
I have never had any problems with retro-fitting 134 fittings on a 12 system. Just make sure you have it evacuated, and vacuum it for 30 minutes or more, then re-charged with R134a. I would also recommend changing the oil in the compressor, and replacing the o-rings.
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
(Post 293587)
Some say you MUST change the receiver drier, some say you MUST change the o-rings, some say you don't do any of that.
Originally Posted by Dassan80z
(Post 293649)
and replacing the o-rings.
Please clarify for us. As I previously said, many people state "you must do this or that" but never explain why. |
Nismo, have you taken the AC apart on a 280ZX? I did and I found only 2 orings, and they where on the compressor itself.
So I can safely say, draining the system and refilling it with the 134a wont hurt it any. As I have changed nothing at all and just refilled it and its been working for 2 years now. I just removed the entire system tho so I can clean the pipes up and paint them. |
Indeed I have completely removed 4 a/c systems from 280zx's. Hum... I thought there were o-rings at every male/female connection... like at the receiver drier, and the condenser. IIRC, the evaporator is a compression fitting. I'll take a look at all my connections tomorrow... seems like there were more than 2 o-rings.
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you do NOT need to change the o-rings unless they are leaking.
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
(Post 293650)
Would you elaborate on this? Changing the o-rings requires disassembling the entire a/c system, so if doing that, you would obviously wouldn't need to vacuum for 30 min, and it would be a must to use new oil...
Please clarify for us. As I previously said, many people state "you must do this or that" but never explain why.
Originally Posted by NismoPick
(Post 293660)
Indeed I have completely removed 4 a/c systems from 280zx's. Hum... I thought there were o-rings at every male/female connection... like at the receiver drier, and the condenser. IIRC, the evaporator is a compression fitting. I'll take a look at all my connections tomorrow... seems like there were more than 2 o-rings.
I quoted this from another website. I was just going to simply say different pressures on 30 year old o-rings. This should explain it better. With R12 systems, high side pressure is usually 1.8 to 2.1 times ambient temperature. That means on an 80 degree day, with moderate humidity, we would expect to see between 144 to 168 PSI on the high side. On hot humid days (with R12), you could say ambient temperature plus 100 PSI., and be pretty close. With R134a it's common to see high side pressure between 2.2 and 2.5 times ambient temperature. On that same 80 degree day we would see between 176 and 200 PSI on the high side of an R134a system. The system operates in a specific range based on outside ambient temperature. High side pressure has a broad range relative to temperature because of heat load on the evaporator, humudity, airflow across the condenser, and engine speed. I'm currently swapping the system out of my 83 onto my 80 (compressor locked up). I am replacing all the o-rings, new 134 fittings, and oil with uv dye. Only costing me about $43 my cost. Plus cleaning and painting all the parts and swapping them. Should be done tomorrow. Going to go get it vacuumed out then charge it at home. Can't wait it's been hot as hell, 2-80 air only works when you're moving. lol -Rich |
I solved my problem, my mechanic told me about this guy who could recharge the system with r12 gas, apparently he bought a whole bunch of it before it was made illegal to make, anyway i forgot how much it cost. the guy was a bit of a jerk, but he did the job, and my AC works fine now.
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280zx, newbie..Happy birthday to me! AC help
Read posts can't figure out how to convert am nurse not mechanic but willing to try.
this will be my first 280, have had 6 300zx's is a stick with rebuilt engine, beast pulled ac compressor and parts, owner still has parts..? better to buy new to convert or what? am lost, would really like to do this myself, am not stupid but am not mechanic either. Am totally thrilled to find this car and buy it, may need some coaching as above been driving 300's for 20 years and loved every minute of it. thank you so much Happy new Year all |
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