1982 280zx turbo flooding bad
 

Hey guys,
So me and my dad finally started to fiddle with the car today after it has been sitting for 7 years in the garage. We drained the tank of the old gas and filled it up with fresh gas,then we put a new battery in it and changed the oil and filter along with the plugs. We cranked the engine over and to our surprise it started right up but it was running really rich and blowing black smoke it then would die as soon as a little throttle was applied then we would try to start it up again and it wouldn't even fire it and we could smell that it was flooding. We pulled the plugs and they were soaking wet We then checked for spark and it seemed that the spark was yellow. We put the plugs back in and it will not fire we then let it sit overnight and if fired right up again but it died again when the throttle was applied. We are stumped could it be sticking injectors? or the fuel pressure regulator? and for the bad spark maybe the coil is shot?
Please help us!!!!
Andrew

welcome, and im sure someone will be able to help you out here, but my two cents are start with basics air fuel and spark, but i advise to start off by getting the user manual and checking timing on the car then start cleaning connectors and make sure you do a proper tune up, meaning if you need new spark plugs, distributor rotor, gas filter and such do so. but to me it might be your Air Flow Meter that is not right and or the air regulator then again its hard to say with out more info on the car and further explanation on the issues. good luck and download the service manual, or look for more info using the search tab on the site. good luck bro and im sure people here would not mind helping out

If you had it running, I would think its the injectors.

Im starting to think its the injectors too or the cold start valve? its literally dumping gas into the cylinders so i thinking it could be the fuel pressure reg along with the injectors maybe. I have no clue though :confused:

There is no cold start valve on the turbo motor. I suggest checking your CHTS and connection.

[QUOTE=NismoPick;305453]There is no cold start valve on the turbo motor. I suggest checking your CHTS and connection.[/QUOT

Yes thats right i got mixed up. Anyway me and my dad were working on the car today and we decided to pull the fuel rail along with the injectors. The injectors were very dirty and gumed up so we decided to test them out off the manifold. We turned the ignition to on to prime the rail to check for leaking injectors there were none. We then cranked the engine over and the spray pattern was so heavy! it was shooting fuel out like crazy definitely way too much. The injectors are going out tomorrow to an injector shop and they will flow bench them and clean them up. If this does not work im sure you will be hearing from me. :icon_pidu:

Ok so we got the injectors back and we installed them and fired her up. She runs a lot better but we are still having major problems. When it was still cold it will rev up nice but then we let it warm up some more and if we hit the gas it would try to stall we don't have the airbox connected so I put my hand over the intake were the little flap is (airflow meter) and then it would rev up but if I take my hand away it will stall when we try to rev it. It then did stall and then it would not start again it flooded right away. Any ideas?
Andrew

Bump Please help!!

280zx turbo still running rough... with video
 

update had the injectors flow benched and cleaned car starts instantly when cold will not or even fire after it has been warmed up even though there is spark, just noticed by removing the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator it smoothed out the idle a little but still rough, if you put your finger over the vacuum nipple on the manifold it returns to running rough. Also note even the slightest touch of the throttle will cause the engine to stall and not start back up until it sits overnight. Also we disconnected the water temp sensor and the small head temp sensor? above it did not change the way it was running at all. Here is a link for a video of what it sounds like running.
Please help us!!!
Andrew

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-LyQ...1&feature=plcp

Merged w/ your previous thread on the same issue, so we don't have to play the guessing game. :D

Thanks Nismo :icon_super: any ideas?

The chts like nismo said and O2 sensors can cause q rich state. Go through and clean all major electrical contacts. Also there should be ways to test each sensor in the fsm.

Ok thanks! i will check out the chts after doing some research i am pretty confident this is the issue.

Pretty good idea, since I said that about a month ago. :D

If there is spark, then there is no fuel... gotta find the sensor that's making the ecu not spray the injectors... AFM and CHTS are the two main sensors for that. :023:

also very common is loose connector leads on the ECU plugs. typically though that doesn't prevent the car from starting, just makes it run horribly. When my turbo 260Z had a CHTS issue, it would run good but rich so when hot if it idled to long it would die, then no restart until after sitting for at least 10 mins. New CHTS and cleaned the plug and never had a flooding issue again.

OK so i tested the CHTS from the ecu pin and to body ground and it was showing open with no continuity so i look under the hood and to me and my dads surprise the plug that is supposed to go to the CHTS was just hanging there not connected :104: so we start looking for the CHTS and its not there.... we then saw the threaded hole were it is supposed to be so we figure that 15 years ago when my dad sent the head out to be ported and polished he either removed it or the shop did and it never go put back. Another thing that concerned me is that i thought there should be coolant coming from that hole? Maybe someone can tell me. so we are ordering the new CHTS and hopefully that will be then end of the flooding issues.

Double check the thermostat housing to see if the CHTS is located there (maybe someone swapped in the pre-81 efi?).

But no, no coolant will come out of the CHTS port. It's closed off.

ok great and i dont think it could have been swapped because my dad bought it new in 82 and never touched it. Btw i am having trouble on the phone with nissan trying to get the CHTS they say they dont have a listing for a cylinder head temp sensor. Is it called something else?
thanks

Yeah, Nissan has two names for it, and now-a-days only uses "Coolant temp sensor". You can probably get it cheaper at Autozone.

http://nissan4u.com/parts/280zx/us_s...llustration_1/

http://www.courtesyparts.com/cyl-temp-p-280056.html

#16:

http://static.nissan4u.com/epc_img/57331056668099.png

Thanks Nismo for all your help.
Andrew

Ok we just replaced the CHTS and and it started to idle really low at about 300 rpm and it would stall and backfire through the intake but the only difference is it would restart after it would stall were as before it would flood right away. with it running we disconnected the CHTS and the revs would pick up and it would run rich like it did before we noticed that the distributor bolts were very loose and we thought maybe it had been moved a bit throughing the timing off.I heard that maybe the ecu needs to be reset and the timing needs to be re done according to ThaPimpShrimp in his video below.
Please help! :022:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5F5Q...endscreen&NR=1

Did you check all the wires for continuity to the ECU from the CHTS? I've found problems in the little harness from the sensor to the main harness.

Yes i checked the continuity from the harness were it connects to the ecu and to were it connects the the CHTS.BUT this is were it gets weird the fsm says check pin 23 at the harness and body ground and it says the resistance should be 2.1k ohm and im getting an open but when i check the continuity from the wire that goes into the ecu and the clip were it connects to the chts it shows continuity im stumped bad ground? :017:

It's possible you got a bad sensor. Have you checked the fuel pressure? If for some reason the pressure is high it will run rich too.

Its weird because i got a resistance spec when i measured the resistance from the sensor and then i made sure that the wire from the the ecu harness to the chts was good which it was but with it connected i could not get a reading but the fsm say i should get a resistance spec.

OK well i think i found the problem.. it seems the parts guy has sold us the wrong sensor it was some aftermarket one and the part number said it was for an opel :012: plus the box had been opened before we got it so i think this is causing the problems that we are having.

Got the right chts and the car runs without flooding now but it will not idle above 350 rpm runs good when gas pedal is lightly pressed checked timing all is good there just wont idle any ideas?

raise the idle... lol should be easy to do. isnt there a set screw on the throttle body to raise the idle by opening the butterfly valve every so minutely?

^^^^^What he said!

the idle can be adjusted but it is pre set from the factory and has never been touched thats why i didn't do it simply because it would just mask the real problem. could it be the aac or the air reg?

What's the timing set to?
Have you "adjusted" "changed" or "modified" anything else during this whole process of elimination?

Timing is set to 23 deg and no nothing has been changed or adjusted just been sitting for 10 years after the head gasket was replaced . it runs good if i feather the peddle but it wont idle it will just stall out if i touch the afm a bit it will run a bit better but im pretty confident the afm has nothing to do with it. Could the aac valve be causing problems? also we noticed the aac valve can be adjusted?

Runs good when the pedal is lightly pressed? Is your TPS adjusted properly?

I suppose anything is possible my dad could have messed with it when he took the head off but he says he didnt because there was no need to.

Regardless did you ever set up the TPS? It would probably be a good idea to go through the EFEC section of the FSM and test and set everything up properly....

What's the RPM's at when you bump the throttle (pedal) up?

If it's not installed (aka using a block off plate instead), it will cause idle problems. The AAC is not adjustable. It's either closed or open.

it idles at like 400 rpm also for the airflow meter test it says i should be getting between 280 and 400 ohms im getting 200, is this a problem? And i thought the aac valve was adjustable because of the rubber plug on the side and under that is an allen bolt.

500-700 is a ok idle if it doesn't die or bog.

its must be lower then its hard to tell because it idles so erratic it just wants to stall its definitely running rich because sometimes it backfires through the AFM and kicks the flap closed i tried to take a vacuum reading but i couldn't keep it running so i had to feather the peddle which would not give me a proper reading its was only like 5 inHg. We also took the AFM apart and there was groves in the trace pad so we moved the board so it had a fresh surface. Just a thought we have had the injectors cleaned and installed new seals they dont feel as tight as thought they should be seals part numbers are correct.

199 and 200 ohms is normal for a good working turbo AFM. The FSM is wrong. The only way to test it is with voltage applied, or borrow a friends car to load test it. Found this out the hard way. Detailed testing of several turbo AFMs can be found in a thread at zcar.com called- Never ending problem. Turbo car like yours. Nobody can fix it. I gave up. 3 ASE certified mechanics have had it 2 weeks. Still a mystery. The problem is the ECCS. 30 year old EFI, realisticly its a total loss. I was thinking impossible- if say this EFI was from the 1950s...would I be patching it up? No!!! 1950/1980 both are too far from 2012. Ten years from now nobody is going to be playing humpty dumpty with a 1982 ECCS. After a certain point/age its just more logical to replace it. We are at that point now, its just not widely realized. Plastics that crumble in your hand, corrosion everywhere, everything comes to an end. Today a lot of z cars are a total loss when it comes to the stock engine management. The guys running SUs are busy driving their cars while the EFI/ECCS guys post their problems and stare at a car that used to run good. If you get rid of the Flintstone ECCS and use an aftermarket engine management you will have less problems and a lot more drive time. If you install megasquirt you didnt whimp out, you fixed the problem. So ask yourself, Do you want the best of 1982 tech that has deteriorated over 30 years? Or do you want 2012 and all new materials? How far will Grandma Z run if we keep picking her up??? Lets ask Mr. Owl.

Andrew280, What was the final outcome, are you still working with the stock ECCS on your Turbo. I am new to the forum, and your symptoms match mine. I have a junkyard find that I am trying to get the idle running smoothly, maybe we can compare notes.