wow! now that's a friend!

 

Every Stranger Or A Slowstang Is A Friend Not Yet Met!!!

 

I guess it will have to wait until a later date.
All hail the 11" 45 degree needle nose pliers and duct tape!!!!!! The darned piece of wood is out!!!! Muahahaha. God it felt good to see it pop free. Now I have to have the guy over help me bolt on the head, connect everything up and drive. I just finished 12 hours of night shift and came over with the new tool and did it. I used the duct tape to hold the chain on either side to the guides and moved the wood one way then the other and put the bent part of the pliers under the wood and pulled hard. Came right out and chain stayed put. Now I put the remainder part of the wood back in (just enough) to hold the chain in place. I have to work tonight and the night after then I'll install everything.
Thanks for the help and support friends.

 

Congratulations. Isnt that a great feeling. Getting something done that felt pretty F'ing hopeless? I just spent the last few hours trying to get my EGR pipe off the intake manifold and I was just about to say screw it and grab the hacksaw when one last whack of the hammer broke it loose. It's a great feeling.

 

I am trying to put the cam sproket on, how do I retract the tensioner? I'm going to try a long pry bar. How can you tell if it 'pops' out too far?
I'm scared

 

Look At Your Pm's Again Stang, Ive Given You Some Direction.

 

If the chain was tight the whole time, the tensioner should still be in. If at any time the chain was let loose, then it prolly popped out.... which then you will need to remove the timing cover & pop it back in.

 

It went loose but not enough to let it fall off the lower sprocket ( when I pulled the stuck wood out). But the tensioner looks like its all the way out. Very little space between the chains. I just read the sections on how to take the front cover off, including the oil pan!!! Thats nuts!!!
I have 4 days off work so I do have the time to do this work. Would be a good experience. (nerves smile)

 

PMed you shady280

 

Alright Try That And If Not Use A Screw Driver To Pop It In First. For Everyone Wondering What Ive Been Telling Stang, Is The Biggest Part Is Dont Take The Wood Out Til The Head Is On And The Sprocket Tight.

 

Thats what I did wrong. When I pull up hard on the sprocket I can feel it give alittle, but when I tryed the pry bar the tensioner didn't seem to move anymore.
I am going to try the pry bar again tonight.

 

Well, I tryed to use two different pry bars. I held the chain with one finger (tightly) striaght up so I could look down at the tensioner. When I try to moving it with a pry bar it just flops up and down, I looks like its not seated in what ever its supposed to be seated in. One or two times it looked like it was starting to slide striaght back like it was going into somthing, but it didn't push back or feel like it was against a spring.
If I go into removing the front cover could I use an impact wrench (I have one with 125psi 26gal compressor) to take the crank bolt off, and how far do I have to lift the engine to remove the oil pan? What other then an oil pan gasket and front cover gaskets should I get when taking the front cover off?
I should just pull the flipping motor and rebiuld the darn thing. J/K

 

Just be careful using an impact wrench on that pulley bolt. Dont rip your hands off Just brace yourself and give it a try. If you're the first person to ever remove that bolt then it's likely to be on there pretty good. Get a timing cover gasket set. It's like $10.00 from an autoparts store. It includes the gasket for the timing cover, oil pump, crankshaft seals, and a couple others. You don't need an oil pan gasket (unless it's leaking) as the oil pan doesn't have to come off to get the front cover off. I know NAPA has that gasket set cause thats where I got mine.

 

OK, good to know. The oil pan thing is confusing me though. In the Haynes manual it states that I must remove the oil pan because the front cover is between the head and oil pan. I have the head on the car, torqued down to 55lbs.
So I can pull the front cover off just being carful of the oil pan gasket and head gasket? Then slide it back in with alittle sealant around the edge?

 

In One Hour I Could Have The Entire Engine Tranny Combo Out!!! Be Careful On The Front Cover, It Includes The Oil Pump And Dizzy, If They Get Out Of Time Your Really Screwed. Read Your Manual Carefully And Make Double, Triple Sure Its Good.

 

#1 is TDC and the distributor is firing #1. When I take the oil pump out I just line up the two 'holes' before putting it back in. Right?
So I can take the front cover off with the head and oil pan on?

 

yeah, but it will be impossible to get back on w/o having the oil pan loosened. The oil pan gasket will just bunch up when you slide the cover back in place. so loosen the front bolts of the oil pan enough to bring it down & slide the cover inplace on top of the gasket.

 

Great, I'll try that. When I use my impact wrench on the crank bolt, what are the chances of the crank turning alittle. I still have the peice of wood in the timing chain. Also should I get a new tensioner? I have the radiator, fan and stabilizer bar off right now. I'm going to take the oil pump off now.

 

yeah, it's a good idea to replace what ya can when it's already open. no need to do it again in 10k miles. put the car in gear & put on the ebrake & you'll be fine. the impact gun won't spin the crank much.

 

Ok so I picked up the front cover gasket and ordered the tensioner. I have to go and find a impact nut big enough for the crank bolt. I tryed fitting a 24mm on it and its alittle too small, I think its a 25 or 26mm. Also, should I take the A/C compressor and its bracket off? The Haynes manual says it needs to be moved out of the way, but when I looked around the A/C, it doesn't look to be attached to the front cover. Hhmm
Thanks for the help so far. The oil pump, water pump and alternator adjuster are off now.

 

I have to go to my work or the 24hr auto parts store to get the right impact socket for the crank. Anyone know what size it is off hand? When I pulled the distributor off the long shaft stayed in the hole. So I then went and pulled the oil pump and the rod still stayed in there. I noted its position then touched it with my finger and it fell out. And there is no punch mark on it like the Haynes manual said (unless I was supposed to do that).
This is where I am right now. Its dirty down there, good thing I have a whole box of nitrile gloves.
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/118/2029/23298.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/118/2029/23299.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/118/2029/23300.jpg

I didn't even think about this before but there are three spots for belts on the crank pulley. But it only had two belts on it. Wierd, Looks like the a/c compressor hasn't had a belt on it for a while.

Sorry for posting so much. I'm just nerves, this being my first timeing cover and all. Thank you for your patiants.

 

Well you've past the point of no return Dont worry about anything. It's not a hard job. The important part now is just making sure you get the oil pump shaft back in correctly. If you dont then your distributor will be off and you'll have some issues.

 

I hope it all goes together well. I tryed for about 30 minutes to get the tensioner back into it hole, but with no success. I had the owner use a REALLY long srew driver from the top and I used a screw driver through the oil pump opening, still won't go in. I thought it was lined up just right a few times but its just wouldn't go in. So I'm moving onto taking the front off, but don't have the right socket still, its bigger then a 25mm.

 

I Think Its 27 If Im Not Mistakin

 

I needed that too. I need to take mine off as well. Now I dont have to have my wife keep picking up large sockets until I find the one that fits Now she'll only have to make one trip.