Rear wheel stud help please
 

I just went to a cheap local tire shop because my tire went flat (went so it could be checked for leaks) and found out it was leaking from the bead. In order to find this out they of course had to take the tire off...two of the studs were stuck so the guy said "hey you know these are going to break off, it's up to you if you want me to break them." well of course I said do it, I mean hell they have to come off right!! Well what he did not tell me is that they don't have the studs and if I wanted them to fix it I woud have to pay like $80!!! FOR TWO STUDS!!!!! I know it is not that much of a pain in the ass to do myself but I do need some help as to possible problems.

My question is, the brake system has pressure to it and I know the caliper has to come off as well as the rotor, is there anything i should do to prevent some mistakes? Do I have to clamp the pads so they don't move or will they stay put when removed? Any hidden bolts? This is the left rear tire on the awesome 1982 280zx Coupe....thanks in advance guys...or gals.

You're talking about the studs that the lug nuts thread onto? And did they actually get broken off?

Such as???


The rear pads should stay in place when you remove the caliper.
Nope....

dont take this the wrong way but sometimes you have to think ahead for a second, OR dont hurry with the answer, think about what you will need afterwards before you make a decision...:)

it will come right off...dont touch the hoses or anything and you will be fine...you do not need to take off the hoses and remove the caliper all the way from the car...leave it all clamped up just move it to the side and it will be fine...dont pinch or nick the hose! other than that its pretty straight forward...if you done brake jobs before you will be fine


oh yeah forgot too add you have the parking brake cable on there too so pop that off too

Well I went ahead and tackled the wheel studs myself (yes they were the ones the lug nuts go on) I am actually suprised how simple these rear disc brakes are and how easy they come apart, nothing like the front disc I had on my Shadow. I used two open end wrenches, a hammer, and some PB Blaster...thats it. 4 bolts hold the brake assembly on, two 9/16th's and two 11/16th's I think and I just slid both parts off to the rear and let them rest on a jack stand. Two firm taps on the rotor and off it came. It took about 30 minutes and ten of those was spent letting the PB Blaster do its work. I used 4 washers on the new studs to help pull them flush when I tightend them down, once I made sure they were all the way in and flush on the backside I reversed everything and took it for a spin...everything works perfectly and I didn't have to remove the E-Brake when I did the job, I just made sure not to twist it or jerk it around. Oh, the piston never moved in the caliper...so I thought about it for a second and figured there IS no pressure till you push the pedal...so that was cool too. And to answer Nismos question yes the studs were broke off and were half the length of the good ones.

awsome and good stuff