Block and parts painting
Block and parts painting
So along with datsungarage's recommendation, what paint BRANDS should i look for for best results? Im going to paint the external of the block, the t-stat housing and water inlets and maybe the valve cover. I sandblasted the water inlet and outlet and o.0 it looks SO good although now i have to repaint them >.< I do have black high temp paint for the exhaust which I am gonna do tomorrow after blasting it. Should I paint the front cover? Right now my block, pistons, front cover and oil pan are being hot-tanked and i'll check on them tomorrow after a full 24 hour soak. Tell me what you think...
water inlet
water outlet
(nvm the front cover, its pretty sealed well enough)
OUTSIDE of the block
maybe I should paint the exhaust and have it wrapped? (or just have it wrapped?)
ya i wont waste it on the manifold. Maybe I'll just wrap the exhaust to keep the heat in, and layer the bottom of my heat shield with heat wrap to prevent heat soaking the injectors. I dont have a hood cowl so i imagine it'll get pretty hot..
I used the dupi-color GM blue on my L28et block, front cover is bead blasted and clear coated.

closest to the stock datto blue that you can get on the shelf
its a bit dirtier
but its not melting to peeling off

closest to the stock datto blue that you can get on the shelf
its a bit dirtier
but its not melting to peeling off
Last edited by skib; Sep 22, 2009 at 02:01 AM.
Hmm, I used some high temp header paint on my Clifford header and it didn't melt off, it just kinda like faded to a gray, but looks pretty cool actually lol
I just use the regular Duplicolor Engine paint, same with my dad, and the only times it melts off on the exhaust port extensions on our Pontiac motors :P
I will definitely have to look into that GM Blue though, I like it. lol
I just use the regular Duplicolor Engine paint, same with my dad, and the only times it melts off on the exhaust port extensions on our Pontiac motors :P
I will definitely have to look into that GM Blue though, I like it. lol
^^^ aye aye aye... in case no one reads... 
thetremendousti has an L28ET motor. I'm simply telling him that it's going to burn off because of much higher EGT's.
Fresh high-temp paint on the L28ET exhaust mani:

after:


Fresh high-temp paint on the L28ET exhaust mani:

after:

I really doubt that a cheap $4 can of spraypaint is going to withstand high-heat for a long time. I've seen it fail first hand (and I know Snw and many on HBZ have too)... but what do I know. 
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html
Daily driving... intermittently? Racing (or full throttle) on a hot day... intermittently.
No one believes me, so waste away.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html
Originally Posted by Dupli-color
Resists temperatures up to 1200 degrees F, intermittently
No one believes me, so waste away.
yes... they are talking Honduhz, but you get the idea:
Typical EGT (in farenheit) readings at 5psi on a greddy kit w/ blue box
idle............................... ...................800
40mph cruising in 5th gear.........1000
75mph cruising in 5th gear.........1250
WOT in 5th gear at 75mph..........1325
***Readings will vary based on gearing, mph, temperature outside as well as your a/f mixture. The leaner you are the higher the temps. You do not want to exceed 1400 degrees farenheit because you will be melting things on a honda
idle............................... ...................800
40mph cruising in 5th gear.........1000
75mph cruising in 5th gear.........1250
WOT in 5th gear at 75mph..........1325
***Readings will vary based on gearing, mph, temperature outside as well as your a/f mixture. The leaner you are the higher the temps. You do not want to exceed 1400 degrees farenheit because you will be melting things on a honda
Well first off I didnt use dupli-color, I used VHT
Very high temperature header paint, Silica Ceramic Coating 1300-2000F
http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html
Very high temperature header paint, Silica Ceramic Coating 1300-2000F
http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html
Last edited by BlueKitsune; Sep 22, 2009 at 12:29 PM.
Fella's I would personally recommend POR-15 (google it) they carry a pretty good selection of high temp colors and their paints look great. I painted my brake calipers with their ford red last fall and looks like I painted em yesterday, my buddy used the rest of the can on his block and it is gorgeous. Or you can rattle can using this method. Blast it clean, couple of "primer" coats with some high temp BBQ paint, (black will darken your top coat, white will keep it nice and light.) then you can spray it with what ever you want. I used a nice shade of blue and haven't had any problems yet after a year and I have a L28ET and she does get hot! High temp silicone paint will work on the exhaust, but why bother? Just header wrap that sh*t, its more efficient than paint and cheaper than powder coating. Take it or leave it, thats what's worked for me.
I sandblasted my front cover, and now its all just bare metal, should I coat the inside with something? I bought some 500* Blue paint to paint the block/outside of the front cover, but what about that glossy look it had before, how do i do that?
not to mension the inside of the front covers going to have oil in there movin arround. it'll soak the metal and prevent corrosion from starting up.
edit:
fixed and yes it does corrode, it just doesent turn into iron oxide
edit:
fixed and yes it does corrode, it just doesent turn into iron oxide
Last edited by Niku-Sama; Sep 23, 2009 at 12:33 AM.
Rust no, corrode yes. Look at your stock aluminum wheels.
Bare aluminum corrodes very quickly.
http://www.keytometals.com/Article14.htm
Bare aluminum corrodes very quickly.http://www.keytometals.com/Article14.htm
if you are asking about the outside of the front cover
and want it to look like bare aluminum
than yes give it some clear
the outsides of all my aluminum parts are clear coated because I like them looking like aluminum, the clear keeps them from corroding
and want it to look like bare aluminum
than yes give it some clear
the outsides of all my aluminum parts are clear coated because I like them looking like aluminum, the clear keeps them from corroding


