Dim headlights? Not noh moh!
 

A common prob on 280zx's is one (or both) headlights getting dim. The usual culprit is the backside of the combination switch where the lights harness plugs in.

Ever since I did my turbo swap (swapped entire car harnesses), left headlight was always dim. After testing volts, relays, wires, fuses, etc, I gave up & wired a new headlight relay in using my good headlight plug as the on source for the relay. I came across some info on the web about a year ago (and has been mentioned here on ZDriver) that the 280zx combo switch has a common faulty pin, prolly due to electrical overload on too small of wires, that gets burned out easily. Today I swapped mine out w/ a spare I have from another parts car. Abra cadabra... no more dim headlight. Who knows how long this one will last, but I just need it to pass safety this month!

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h8...SC08224red.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h8...s/DSC08223.jpg

i have a problem with my High's. The don't want to go on dimm unless i shake the switch. and some times goin down the road. they will just click on when they feel like it. My headlights are really bright. and it pisses ppl off when i am behind them. and the highs kick on. and don't want to go back off.

ya, Mine looks crispy like that too. I have a nice clean spare but I haven't swapped it in yet. :D

With a small wire brush, you should be able to clean off the contacts. Then add a relay to keep the high voltage/amperage from going across those leads and it'll last nearly forever.

I don't know if mine is the same problem as described here, but suddenly, my left headlight goes dim. The thing is, it's not consistent, because sometimes it shine regularly. And then last night, alarmingly, both headlights went dim. After awhile, I turned the lights off and then back on again, and suddenly they were both back to full brightness. Even while dim, I can hear the headlight relay under the hood clicking, so I know that part's working.

So do you guys think this intermittent dimness is related to the same problem? If so, does the whole switch stalk assembly pictured above need to be replaced, or is it just the plug (which looks like it unscrews from the main assembly)? Gee, is it just coincidence that this problem appeared soon after installing my Z31T ECU conversion?

I'll go take a look at my steering column and see if it looks burned.

I swapped in the clean combo switch and at the same time ran relays to take the load of the low beams. That should keep a low current going through the switch and it should never get crispy again!
so the new owner can thank me for that. :D

my wifes 1982 280zx 2 seater auto n/a had that problem after i switched to Halogen bulbs . You should of seen hers it was melted togethor i had to find a new harness and new light switches turn signal unit. " Not new but from one of our parts cars "

Here's a note that may be of help to someone - just in case anyone is doing it, running higher wattage lamps in the headlights is NOT the way to get better illumination. It will, however, result in frying that switch and/or contacts faster.

The solution is a set of Cibie headlights. I've run them since 1991 and they are superb - reflective illumination on high beam up to one mile, and outstanding visibility. They're a bit pricey, so I cover them with the 3-M headlight protective film available from Griot's garage. Cibie headlights are available in the US but it takes some web searching to find them. I like the Z-beam models personally.

Run Cibie headlights with standard 55w lamps and you will have no visibility problems and no problems caused by overloading the headlight switch.

A lot of people erroneously believe the stock relays are enough and don't realize the switch/contacts can still get fried, especially with upgraded wattage headlights.

Bleach, how about a write-up on the "supplemental" relay installation?

For US DOT approved Cibie headlights, check out:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html

I use the 55w/100w Narva bulbs.

He also sells generic headlight relay kits and has some great technical information about the topic.

The quick verison is::

I ran the signal wire to turn the relays on right from the headlight plug. (at the bulb)

I mounted two relays (one for each headlight) on the strut tower right by the battery. I did remove my cruise control system which allows more room there.

The signal wire splits to power both relays. I grounded both relays to the car right below where they were mounted with a supplimental ground running up to the battery.

The main power draw comes from the battery to a power distribution block and then to the relays. Then each relay has a power wire that runs to the headlights. High beams did not work after this install... I did not research as to why this was so.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAND...spagenameZWDVW

anyone think that these would be good for an hid project/?

Only if you never drive at night with those as the primary lights. I'm not real fond of the "blue" light either.

those look pretty illegal.

Frank had a thread about similar headlights:https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ight=headlight

This thread is about fixing dim headlights... not rice rocket headlights. :D

I guess you think those $10 headlights are actually projector lenses... no, they aren't and no they would not be good for an HID project.
Buy OEM headlights from another car with projectors then custom install them into H4 7" round headlights. There is already a thread on this. Search for it. You can add to that thread if you have questions.

no i was just looking at the lenses cause i havent seen a newer bmw, lexus, or acura at the local yard lately and i dont want 500+ dollar headlights id rather just go the euro light from black dragon with the halogen....since im gonna be there next week n e way

Be there? Is Black Dragon local to the metroplex or something? I thought they were from way up north...

rx

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/contactUs.htm

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I don't understand this statement. How will changing headlamps effect how much current is needed to trip the relay's signal? I have not looked at the wireing diagram, but as you say there are stock relays, I believe you. Being relays in the setup, shouldn't the combo switch only be letting through enough current to flip the relays? Or are the stock relays used in a different way?

rx

Ah, right right... I forget he is a traveling businessman. That brings up the question, sticky280zx: Is the ZX your traveling car or weekend project?

rx

Seems that here in Texas, HID's are illegal on any car not equipped with them from the factory. Not to say its regularly enforced or anything though... There's a ton of Civics here in the DFW metroplex that'll blind you from 2 miles away :/

those are just fake projectors, with regular halogen bulbs. nothing too bad about that, though i doubt they aim properly. i was referring more to the blue LEDs in them. most places, front facing blue lights will get you a ticket.

Y'know what, I was thinking the same thing too.

If the headlights draw more watts / amps... the wires and relays will have to support the higher power as well. Most stock relays are rated for 25-30amps. You throw in an electrical device sucking more than that, you will eventually melt your wires and relays.

I can understand the relays or wires getting fried from higher currant draw. This however should not be "seen" by the switch or contacts though, as all the switch does is activate the relay. Is the deal that the relays degrade over time causing a higher current draw on the signal wire? This is the only way that current through the switch should change.