My new Z | need some help please.
#1
My new Z | need some help please.
Hello all,
My name is Esteban, I live in Houston Texas and i have a few ?, hopefully you guys can help me out with.
I will be picking up a 1973Z tomorrow (Wednesday 12/15/04)
Im getting it for 500.00 because they guy who is selling it has no time to mess with it.
Here are somethings that im needing advice with:
1. the car will have to be re-keyed, current owner has lost the keys.
2. Im doing some minor maint. on the car before I psark it up:
-- Draining the gas tank (any help on how to do this?)
-- Changing the fuel filter asI have heard the pumps used in these cars are somewhat weak.
-- Changing the Spark plugs
-- Changing the oil
-- Adding fresh Gas
-- checking for belts and air filter/carb state.
Any more info on what else I chould do to it before driving it home? The car is in Bellville Texas and I live in Houston, so there is about an hour or two drive home, and im wanting the car to make t home in one piece.
Im mainly worried bout the re-keyig issue, is this something a locksmith can do fairly quick? also should I pull the cylinder key? and take that to a locksmith?
I have been a honda guy since I started driving but I have never even driven a Nissan/Datsun car yet so can some of you guys giv me some pointrs as to what else I should chck for?
The car as been sitting for about a year and it was fired up last about 6 months ago.
Im getting the car for 500.00 dollars and its in pretty much a great condition I think, thre are simple things that I know to check but what are some of the more common problems that could arise from the car sitting for so long? the guy biought the car for 4200 about a few years ago and is needing to get rid of it, he is a friend from my work so i know the car hs been well kept, its just a matter of getting back up to par.
here is a pic.
any help/comments etc will be appreciated as I am a rookie to these cars.
My name is Esteban, I live in Houston Texas and i have a few ?, hopefully you guys can help me out with.
I will be picking up a 1973Z tomorrow (Wednesday 12/15/04)
Im getting it for 500.00 because they guy who is selling it has no time to mess with it.
Here are somethings that im needing advice with:
1. the car will have to be re-keyed, current owner has lost the keys.
2. Im doing some minor maint. on the car before I psark it up:
-- Draining the gas tank (any help on how to do this?)
-- Changing the fuel filter asI have heard the pumps used in these cars are somewhat weak.
-- Changing the Spark plugs
-- Changing the oil
-- Adding fresh Gas
-- checking for belts and air filter/carb state.
Any more info on what else I chould do to it before driving it home? The car is in Bellville Texas and I live in Houston, so there is about an hour or two drive home, and im wanting the car to make t home in one piece.
Im mainly worried bout the re-keyig issue, is this something a locksmith can do fairly quick? also should I pull the cylinder key? and take that to a locksmith?
I have been a honda guy since I started driving but I have never even driven a Nissan/Datsun car yet so can some of you guys giv me some pointrs as to what else I should chck for?
The car as been sitting for about a year and it was fired up last about 6 months ago.
Im getting the car for 500.00 dollars and its in pretty much a great condition I think, thre are simple things that I know to check but what are some of the more common problems that could arise from the car sitting for so long? the guy biought the car for 4200 about a few years ago and is needing to get rid of it, he is a friend from my work so i know the car hs been well kept, its just a matter of getting back up to par.
here is a pic.
any help/comments etc will be appreciated as I am a rookie to these cars.
#2
Nice car Good luck
Esteban,
By now you will have already picked up the car. I hope you are back in Houston Texas.
"I will be picking up a 1973Z tomorrow (Wednesday 12/15/04)"
But if not let me say a few things
"1. the car will have to be re-keyed, current owner has lost the keys."
You can remove the whole key/lock assembly with only a few screws and you could take that to a locksmith.
"2. Im doing some minor maint. on the car before I psark it up:
-- Draining the gas tank (any help on how to do this?)"
Drain plug is on the bottom. Undo this the gas will fall out:-)
"-- Changing the fuel filter asI have heard the pumps used in these cars are somewhat weak.
-- Changing the Spark plugs
-- Changing the oil
-- Adding fresh Gas
-- checking for belts and air filter/carb state."
Sure do it.
"Any more info on what else I chould do to it before driving it home?"
You might check the radiator hoses.
"The car is in Bellville Texas and I live in Houston, so there is about an hour or two drive home, and im wanting the car to make t home in one piece."
I purchased a 280z on eBay in Houston a month ago and my wife and I drove it 2,000 miles back to Boston (36 hours) without any problem.
Go for it.
I did hit a deer in MA 3 days latter but thats another story. see pics
http://homepage.mac.com/rosswilliams/PhotoAlbum29.html
Good luck
By now you will have already picked up the car. I hope you are back in Houston Texas.
"I will be picking up a 1973Z tomorrow (Wednesday 12/15/04)"
But if not let me say a few things
"1. the car will have to be re-keyed, current owner has lost the keys."
You can remove the whole key/lock assembly with only a few screws and you could take that to a locksmith.
"2. Im doing some minor maint. on the car before I psark it up:
-- Draining the gas tank (any help on how to do this?)"
Drain plug is on the bottom. Undo this the gas will fall out:-)
"-- Changing the fuel filter asI have heard the pumps used in these cars are somewhat weak.
-- Changing the Spark plugs
-- Changing the oil
-- Adding fresh Gas
-- checking for belts and air filter/carb state."
Sure do it.
"Any more info on what else I chould do to it before driving it home?"
You might check the radiator hoses.
"The car is in Bellville Texas and I live in Houston, so there is about an hour or two drive home, and im wanting the car to make t home in one piece."
I purchased a 280z on eBay in Houston a month ago and my wife and I drove it 2,000 miles back to Boston (36 hours) without any problem.
Go for it.
I did hit a deer in MA 3 days latter but thats another story. see pics
http://homepage.mac.com/rosswilliams/PhotoAlbum29.html
Good luck
#3
Setting one year is not that bad . You might get by with just puting in some hi test fuel and fireing it up. I would be most concerned with the brakes and the oil. Check all fluid leavels , and when checking the oil if it is dirty stop by a jiffy lube and have it changed . changing plugs do it when you get home if the engine is running ok at start up I find NGK s work the best in these cars . I use BPR6ES . No need to waist your money on split fire or this type of plug . If the carbs are flat tops be thinking about finding '70-'72 SUs . These are superior in all reguards and keep the '73 intake manifold . Get the air cleaner from the early 240 as well. As for the fuel pump , the 73 has two . The electric one was added this year to help prevent the fuel from boiling in the fuel rail. I run my '73 on the electric only. For the future to save a lot of cash , look for a RX-7 fuel pump '79 or '80 bone yard prices $15.00. Be sure the coolent is full . enjoy the ride. Gary From the picture it looks like you got one hell of a good deal.
#4
ok , so i didnt get to drive it home that day...
It seems someone tried to steal the car, as the gas tank was extremetly full with something that looked/smelled like turpentine and the rear brakes are locked up and needless to say there was the whole key issue.
Now keep in mind im not datsun/nissan savvy... put me in front of a honda engine and I'm comfortable, but im a bit of a rookie to datsuns.
We got there at 11 am, went straight to get get it started, changed the battery and began draining the gas tank, it must have had at least 15 gallons of that crap that was in there...we flushed it and filled it up with about 8 bucks of 91 octane gas.
From here on we began checking the fuel lines, turns out the pump is ok, the filter is ok (though im changing it soon) the sparkplugs are still doing their thing and the fuel was getting past the filter without a problem.
Tried to start the car.. nothing. checked all the lined upto the carb, and found the first issue:
One of the piston thingies in the cylinder that sits on top of the carb was stuck, I loosened it up and reoiled it a bit. and checcked the fuel reservior right before the carb. unplugged it, set it all back up and the car fired up!
I was pretty impressed with the way the idle went for a car older than me! It did misfired a bit but it worked like a charm on the first few tries.
The carb set up is a bit intimidating to me, I 've never deal with a carbed engine. The engine seems sturdy and held its idle pretty good i thought. In all i fell like i got a damn good deal.
There are a few rust spots but i have a guy here in houston that has given me a good deal on boy work.
The guy who sold it looked a bit mad that we got that thing running, he was wanting to raise the price ha ha...no way!!
Today I'm driving back up there to loosen up the rear brakes, replace the pads if needed and check for fluids and what not. hopefully it will be driven back later on today!
Thaks for the help!
I will be coming back to give some updates!
Thanks for the help RWilliKiwi and myxtaz.
Esteban
BTW whatkind of oil can i use onthe piston thingies that sit on top of the carbs? Haynes says to sue everyman's oil but i cannot find it anywhere any ideas on replacements?
the gas gauge is not working properly any ideas as to what may be the problem? its the stock one so im guessing it is mechanical?
thanks again y'all
It seems someone tried to steal the car, as the gas tank was extremetly full with something that looked/smelled like turpentine and the rear brakes are locked up and needless to say there was the whole key issue.
Now keep in mind im not datsun/nissan savvy... put me in front of a honda engine and I'm comfortable, but im a bit of a rookie to datsuns.
We got there at 11 am, went straight to get get it started, changed the battery and began draining the gas tank, it must have had at least 15 gallons of that crap that was in there...we flushed it and filled it up with about 8 bucks of 91 octane gas.
From here on we began checking the fuel lines, turns out the pump is ok, the filter is ok (though im changing it soon) the sparkplugs are still doing their thing and the fuel was getting past the filter without a problem.
Tried to start the car.. nothing. checked all the lined upto the carb, and found the first issue:
One of the piston thingies in the cylinder that sits on top of the carb was stuck, I loosened it up and reoiled it a bit. and checcked the fuel reservior right before the carb. unplugged it, set it all back up and the car fired up!
I was pretty impressed with the way the idle went for a car older than me! It did misfired a bit but it worked like a charm on the first few tries.
The carb set up is a bit intimidating to me, I 've never deal with a carbed engine. The engine seems sturdy and held its idle pretty good i thought. In all i fell like i got a damn good deal.
There are a few rust spots but i have a guy here in houston that has given me a good deal on boy work.
The guy who sold it looked a bit mad that we got that thing running, he was wanting to raise the price ha ha...no way!!
Today I'm driving back up there to loosen up the rear brakes, replace the pads if needed and check for fluids and what not. hopefully it will be driven back later on today!
Thaks for the help!
I will be coming back to give some updates!
Thanks for the help RWilliKiwi and myxtaz.
Esteban
BTW whatkind of oil can i use onthe piston thingies that sit on top of the carbs? Haynes says to sue everyman's oil but i cannot find it anywhere any ideas on replacements?
the gas gauge is not working properly any ideas as to what may be the problem? its the stock one so im guessing it is mechanical?
thanks again y'all
Last edited by este; 12-20-2004 at 01:20 AM.
#5
Well, you've been christened as a Z owner. There's a pretty good site at Zcar.com where you can access the archives for tuning SU carbs, and a few of the Z owners can easily explain it to you. It's worth it to invest in a synchrotester (I got mine through MSA) and the customer service people will tell you what the tester should read.
Carbureted engines aren't that hard to maintain, but a 30+ year old car will need some maintenance, especially if it's been sitting, as in your car's case. The oil used for the carbs is called damper oil and is similar to 20 weight (Automatic Transmission Fluid, 20 weight or 30 weight engine oil). Forget going to PepBoys or AutoZone unless you're lucky and your neighbor store has someone working there that knows carbed engines; motorcyle shops would be a better bet to find the oil. Be aware that there is a chance those carbs may need to be rebuilt, since wear and tear and age can take their toll. ZTherapy is the primo site, but there are a few other sites that do a good job. Mine cost a little over $700, but the car now drives perfect. I didn't do the carbs myself since (a) I don't have the slightest idea where to start, and (b), there isn't a decent mechanic for miles that can redo anything I would have done wrong.
You've already discovered, whether you realize it or not, that this car will be a challenge, albeit a fun one. The engine's fairly easy to figure out, and if you invest in a Haynes manual and a Factory Service Manual specific for your year, you'll be set.
Carbureted engines aren't that hard to maintain, but a 30+ year old car will need some maintenance, especially if it's been sitting, as in your car's case. The oil used for the carbs is called damper oil and is similar to 20 weight (Automatic Transmission Fluid, 20 weight or 30 weight engine oil). Forget going to PepBoys or AutoZone unless you're lucky and your neighbor store has someone working there that knows carbed engines; motorcyle shops would be a better bet to find the oil. Be aware that there is a chance those carbs may need to be rebuilt, since wear and tear and age can take their toll. ZTherapy is the primo site, but there are a few other sites that do a good job. Mine cost a little over $700, but the car now drives perfect. I didn't do the carbs myself since (a) I don't have the slightest idea where to start, and (b), there isn't a decent mechanic for miles that can redo anything I would have done wrong.
You've already discovered, whether you realize it or not, that this car will be a challenge, albeit a fun one. The engine's fairly easy to figure out, and if you invest in a Haynes manual and a Factory Service Manual specific for your year, you'll be set.
#6
yup yup and yup!!
I got off from work today at 4am and headed for a quicjk nap, got up at 8am and headed for the 80 mile trip to actually poick up the car.
it fired up right away! and idled very nicely.
the back brakes were locked, we tried and tried and finally got them loose, but the front brakes are not purging at all!? you can her fluid gurgling around in side the master cylinder but nothing comes out when purged. still we tried to drive the car home to houston and got about halfway before the rear passenger brake like gave out, thus no brakes!
Im no guru but I think the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced the reservoirs were dry as hell so the seals may have dry-rotted (im guessing). so I broke down and had top have the car make its grand entrance as a trailer queen... It is currently sitting at a shop and will get a full brake assessment tomorrow.
Some redneck hillbilly mechanic wanted to charge me 800 dollars to check the master cylinder!! I laughed at him and said i could probably get it towed and diagnosed for free.
how hard is it to take the steel hoses and test them for any clogs? I plan on doing most of the work myself but then again the brake system is not something to be toyed with I believe.
I really need to wquit making these loooong posts on here. sorry y'all ha ha. I will get the estimate and diagnosis tomorrow and the if looks like iit is something easy I might venture to do the job myself.
Until then I still cannot claim the car to be fully mine until it is sittin pretty in front of my house.
I got off from work today at 4am and headed for a quicjk nap, got up at 8am and headed for the 80 mile trip to actually poick up the car.
it fired up right away! and idled very nicely.
the back brakes were locked, we tried and tried and finally got them loose, but the front brakes are not purging at all!? you can her fluid gurgling around in side the master cylinder but nothing comes out when purged. still we tried to drive the car home to houston and got about halfway before the rear passenger brake like gave out, thus no brakes!
Im no guru but I think the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced the reservoirs were dry as hell so the seals may have dry-rotted (im guessing). so I broke down and had top have the car make its grand entrance as a trailer queen... It is currently sitting at a shop and will get a full brake assessment tomorrow.
Some redneck hillbilly mechanic wanted to charge me 800 dollars to check the master cylinder!! I laughed at him and said i could probably get it towed and diagnosed for free.
how hard is it to take the steel hoses and test them for any clogs? I plan on doing most of the work myself but then again the brake system is not something to be toyed with I believe.
I really need to wquit making these loooong posts on here. sorry y'all ha ha. I will get the estimate and diagnosis tomorrow and the if looks like iit is something easy I might venture to do the job myself.
Until then I still cannot claim the car to be fully mine until it is sittin pretty in front of my house.
#7
On your brakes, you should try to get all of the old fluid out. Older cars, that set for a while, in hot humid areas, tend to get moisture in the lines and reservoir. The moisture will migrate to the lowest points, ruin the seals and rust the metal pieces. The best way to flush the old fluid is to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, refill it with new fluid and then start bleeding the wheel cylinders until new fluid comes out.
#8
I found a replacement for it, we tried to purge the brakes and yu can hear stuff gurgling around from the insire of the car but nothing came out. so we are thinking since the reserviors were dry, the seals must have dry rotted... would this be correct?
the rear brake cable snapped off but it wasnt really that big of an issue, im looking to replace most of these parts 9master cylinder and rear brake cables.
in all I cant complain i bought the car knowing it needed some work so now its just amatter of getting my hands dirty.
the rear brake cable snapped off but it wasnt really that big of an issue, im looking to replace most of these parts 9master cylinder and rear brake cables.
in all I cant complain i bought the car knowing it needed some work so now its just amatter of getting my hands dirty.
#11
Originally Posted by este
yup yup and yup!!
I got off from work today at 4am and headed for a quicjk nap, got up at 8am and headed for the 80 mile trip to actually poick up the car.
it fired up right away! and idled very nicely.
the back brakes were locked, we tried and tried and finally got them loose, but the front brakes are not purging at all!? you can her fluid gurgling around in side the master cylinder but nothing comes out when purged. still we tried to drive the car home to houston and got about halfway before the rear passenger brake like gave out, thus no brakes!
Im no guru but I think the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced the reservoirs were dry as hell so the seals may have dry-rotted (im guessing). so I broke down and had top have the car make its grand entrance as a trailer queen... It is currently sitting at a shop and will get a full brake assessment tomorrow.
Some redneck hillbilly mechanic wanted to charge me 800 dollars to check the master cylinder!! I laughed at him and said i could probably get it towed and diagnosed for free.
how hard is it to take the steel hoses and test them for any clogs? I plan on doing most of the work myself but then again the brake system is not something to be toyed with I believe.
I really need to wquit making these loooong posts on here. sorry y'all ha ha. I will get the estimate and diagnosis tomorrow and the if looks like iit is something easy I might venture to do the job myself.
Until then I still cannot claim the car to be fully mine until it is sittin pretty in front of my house.
I got off from work today at 4am and headed for a quicjk nap, got up at 8am and headed for the 80 mile trip to actually poick up the car.
it fired up right away! and idled very nicely.
the back brakes were locked, we tried and tried and finally got them loose, but the front brakes are not purging at all!? you can her fluid gurgling around in side the master cylinder but nothing comes out when purged. still we tried to drive the car home to houston and got about halfway before the rear passenger brake like gave out, thus no brakes!
Im no guru but I think the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced the reservoirs were dry as hell so the seals may have dry-rotted (im guessing). so I broke down and had top have the car make its grand entrance as a trailer queen... It is currently sitting at a shop and will get a full brake assessment tomorrow.
Some redneck hillbilly mechanic wanted to charge me 800 dollars to check the master cylinder!! I laughed at him and said i could probably get it towed and diagnosed for free.
how hard is it to take the steel hoses and test them for any clogs? I plan on doing most of the work myself but then again the brake system is not something to be toyed with I believe.
I really need to wquit making these loooong posts on here. sorry y'all ha ha. I will get the estimate and diagnosis tomorrow and the if looks like iit is something easy I might venture to do the job myself.
Until then I still cannot claim the car to be fully mine until it is sittin pretty in front of my house.
JacK.
2 71's
1 73
#12
Originally Posted by este
ok , so i didnt get to drive it home that day...
It seems someone tried to steal the car, as the gas tank was extremetly full with something that looked/smelled like turpentine and the rear brakes are locked up and needless to say there was the whole key issue.
Now keep in mind im not datsun/nissan savvy... put me in front of a honda engine and I'm comfortable, but im a bit of a rookie to datsuns.
We got there at 11 am, went straight to get get it started, changed the battery and began draining the gas tank, it must have had at least 15 gallons of that crap that was in there...we flushed it and filled it up with about 8 bucks of 91 octane gas.
From here on we began checking the fuel lines, turns out the pump is ok, the filter is ok (though im changing it soon) the sparkplugs are still doing their thing and the fuel was getting past the filter without a problem.
Tried to start the car.. nothing. checked all the lined upto the carb, and found the first issue:
One of the piston thingies in the cylinder that sits on top of the carb was stuck, I loosened it up and reoiled it a bit. and checcked the fuel reservior right before the carb. unplugged it, set it all back up and the car fired up!
I was pretty impressed with the way the idle went for a car older than me! It did misfired a bit but it worked like a charm on the first few tries.
The carb set up is a bit intimidating to me, I 've never deal with a carbed engine. The engine seems sturdy and held its idle pretty good i thought. In all i fell like i got a damn good deal.
There are a few rust spots but i have a guy here in houston that has given me a good deal on boy work.
The guy who sold it looked a bit mad that we got that thing running, he was wanting to raise the price ha ha...no way!!
Today I'm driving back up there to loosen up the rear brakes, replace the pads if needed and check for fluids and what not. hopefully it will be driven back later on today!
Thaks for the help!
I will be coming back to give some updates!
Thanks for the help RWilliKiwi and myxtaz.
Esteban
BTW whatkind of oil can i use onthe piston thingies that sit on top of the carbs? Haynes says to sue everyman's oil but i cannot find it anywhere any ideas on replacements?
the gas gauge is not working properly any ideas as to what may be the problem? its the stock one so im guessing it is mechanical?
thanks again y'all
It seems someone tried to steal the car, as the gas tank was extremetly full with something that looked/smelled like turpentine and the rear brakes are locked up and needless to say there was the whole key issue.
Now keep in mind im not datsun/nissan savvy... put me in front of a honda engine and I'm comfortable, but im a bit of a rookie to datsuns.
We got there at 11 am, went straight to get get it started, changed the battery and began draining the gas tank, it must have had at least 15 gallons of that crap that was in there...we flushed it and filled it up with about 8 bucks of 91 octane gas.
From here on we began checking the fuel lines, turns out the pump is ok, the filter is ok (though im changing it soon) the sparkplugs are still doing their thing and the fuel was getting past the filter without a problem.
Tried to start the car.. nothing. checked all the lined upto the carb, and found the first issue:
One of the piston thingies in the cylinder that sits on top of the carb was stuck, I loosened it up and reoiled it a bit. and checcked the fuel reservior right before the carb. unplugged it, set it all back up and the car fired up!
I was pretty impressed with the way the idle went for a car older than me! It did misfired a bit but it worked like a charm on the first few tries.
The carb set up is a bit intimidating to me, I 've never deal with a carbed engine. The engine seems sturdy and held its idle pretty good i thought. In all i fell like i got a damn good deal.
There are a few rust spots but i have a guy here in houston that has given me a good deal on boy work.
The guy who sold it looked a bit mad that we got that thing running, he was wanting to raise the price ha ha...no way!!
Today I'm driving back up there to loosen up the rear brakes, replace the pads if needed and check for fluids and what not. hopefully it will be driven back later on today!
Thaks for the help!
I will be coming back to give some updates!
Thanks for the help RWilliKiwi and myxtaz.
Esteban
BTW whatkind of oil can i use onthe piston thingies that sit on top of the carbs? Haynes says to sue everyman's oil but i cannot find it anywhere any ideas on replacements?
the gas gauge is not working properly any ideas as to what may be the problem? its the stock one so im guessing it is mechanical?
thanks again y'all
#13
Originally Posted by myxtaz
I USE 20W OIL IN THE DAMPERS SOME USE ATF BUT IT IS 5WT , CAUSES LEAN STUMBLE. It does sound like a great deal all the best of luck. The rear brakes might brake loose , have you tried to move it with the engine ? Shoes could have rusted to the drums , especially if the e-brake was on. They are a chore to remove !