GREAT day
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2
From: Saint Louis
GREAT day
Hi all:
Just bought my first Z (1974, early, 260z) and learned how to drive a stick all in the same awesome day today.
I hope I am not in over my head or crazy (well, have always been the latter) but I'll have fun no matter what. Here are some pics. Can anyone tell me if these carbs are original to this 260 or if they've been swapped for 240 ones? I can't figure out what the different look is between the "flat" and the "round" tops that people refer to. Don't know what to hope for - I know the 260s are a bit problematic and most people swap them out for 240 engine carbs which will be a few bucks but since it's running and have not been swapped to this point - I guess I'd be okay with that too. Also, is this engine a train wreck waiting to happen in general at first glance?
Also, except for the douche in this car's past who painted over the original silver with crap white - I think most parts (int. and ext.) are original but I am certainly no expert. I think I am going to be one of those "all stock original" types as I restore so any items that are screaming out as non original - please let me know and I'll start scouring ebay and junkyards for original stuff.
Thank you!
Just bought my first Z (1974, early, 260z) and learned how to drive a stick all in the same awesome day today.
I hope I am not in over my head or crazy (well, have always been the latter) but I'll have fun no matter what. Here are some pics. Can anyone tell me if these carbs are original to this 260 or if they've been swapped for 240 ones? I can't figure out what the different look is between the "flat" and the "round" tops that people refer to. Don't know what to hope for - I know the 260s are a bit problematic and most people swap them out for 240 engine carbs which will be a few bucks but since it's running and have not been swapped to this point - I guess I'd be okay with that too. Also, is this engine a train wreck waiting to happen in general at first glance?
Also, except for the douche in this car's past who painted over the original silver with crap white - I think most parts (int. and ext.) are original but I am certainly no expert. I think I am going to be one of those "all stock original" types as I restore so any items that are screaming out as non original - please let me know and I'll start scouring ebay and junkyards for original stuff.
Thank you!
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 305
You have the round top SU carburetors. See more examples at Welcome to ZTherapy.com.
Flat top carburetors look like the attached picture. If you notice, the flat top carburetors are more cylindrical. The round top have more of a dome shape at the top.
The interesting thing is that whomever did the swap used the old air cleaner. I haven't seen it done that way before.
Since you haven't posted any pictures of the engine with the valve cover or oil pan removed (Don't try to remove the oil pan unless you're mechanically inclined.) or pictures of the spark plugs, I don't know if anybody could tell you anything about the state of your engine based upon pictures.
However, the brake fluid looks awfully dark. It shouldn't look like coffee. Flush your brake lines.
There are definitely some parts that you don't necessarily want to worry about being stock. The seatbelt interlock relay was a royal pain in the a**. It was a federally mandated requirement for 1974 model year cars. When the regulators figured out how bad they messed up, it was quickly removed from the regulations in time for the 1975 model year. Most people have bypassed the relay or seat belt sensors. One part that is difficult to find in usable condition is the stock transitor ignition unit. Many people have swapped in 280ZX distributors, and some have gone a cheaper route, putting in a GM HEI unit. There is a recent thread talking about that swap. Just remember to unplug the stock ignition unit if you do a swap.
The parking light circuit is vulnerable in pretty much all S30s. The most common problem is corrosion in parking light sockets can create an alternative current path. The fuse is too large for the gauge wire, too, so the wiring can burn up, or the fuse box can melt down (typically in 240Zs). Replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs drops the current in the circuit to a very low level. It is a good change from stock.
Inspect all soft hoses for the cooling system, fuel system, and brakes. They rot, though from your pictures, it looks like the lines near the carburetors are in good shape.
Download a copy of the FSM from XenonS30.
Enjoy the ride.
Edit: I forgot to mention this. Change all of the fluids: Coolant, brake fluid, clutch fluid (use brake fluid).
Flat top carburetors look like the attached picture. If you notice, the flat top carburetors are more cylindrical. The round top have more of a dome shape at the top.
The interesting thing is that whomever did the swap used the old air cleaner. I haven't seen it done that way before.
Since you haven't posted any pictures of the engine with the valve cover or oil pan removed (Don't try to remove the oil pan unless you're mechanically inclined.) or pictures of the spark plugs, I don't know if anybody could tell you anything about the state of your engine based upon pictures.
However, the brake fluid looks awfully dark. It shouldn't look like coffee. Flush your brake lines.
There are definitely some parts that you don't necessarily want to worry about being stock. The seatbelt interlock relay was a royal pain in the a**. It was a federally mandated requirement for 1974 model year cars. When the regulators figured out how bad they messed up, it was quickly removed from the regulations in time for the 1975 model year. Most people have bypassed the relay or seat belt sensors. One part that is difficult to find in usable condition is the stock transitor ignition unit. Many people have swapped in 280ZX distributors, and some have gone a cheaper route, putting in a GM HEI unit. There is a recent thread talking about that swap. Just remember to unplug the stock ignition unit if you do a swap.
The parking light circuit is vulnerable in pretty much all S30s. The most common problem is corrosion in parking light sockets can create an alternative current path. The fuse is too large for the gauge wire, too, so the wiring can burn up, or the fuse box can melt down (typically in 240Zs). Replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs drops the current in the circuit to a very low level. It is a good change from stock.
Inspect all soft hoses for the cooling system, fuel system, and brakes. They rot, though from your pictures, it looks like the lines near the carburetors are in good shape.
Download a copy of the FSM from XenonS30.
Enjoy the ride.
Edit: I forgot to mention this. Change all of the fluids: Coolant, brake fluid, clutch fluid (use brake fluid).
Last edited by Steve260Z74; Feb 20, 2013 at 07:07 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2
From: Saint Louis
Thanks for all the good information. I guess I am glad they were swapped - and that's the pic I couldn't locate. I see the difference now and round is better than flat in almost any case car related or not - HA.
I can probably do a pic with the valve cover removed but yeah I don't want to take the oil pan off! Maybe I can have somebody help me with that
It is pretty cold here in the Midwest but I just may have to deal with it before a nice day hits and do all the checking and fluid swapping you mentioned. I need to invest in some winter Carharts I think.... That or run heat to my garage!
I can probably do a pic with the valve cover removed but yeah I don't want to take the oil pan off! Maybe I can have somebody help me with that
It is pretty cold here in the Midwest but I just may have to deal with it before a nice day hits and do all the checking and fluid swapping you mentioned. I need to invest in some winter Carharts I think.... That or run heat to my garage!
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