ZDriver.com - Don't pull the engine

Okay. Hope I don't leave anything out.
Tools- 4 good jack stands. floor jack. clutch alignment tool. basic hand tools.
Parts-front seal housing gasket. front and rear seal. New thro-out bearing and clutch/ pressure plate. 3 quarts of synthetic gear oil. I used Redline.
1. Disconect the battery.
2. Remove starter (2 bolts), no need to disconnect wires. Remove two top bolts in bell housing.
3. Remove clutch slave cylinder from bell housing two bolts. Don't remove the hose unless you are going to replace it.
4. Remove throttle linkage from firewall to manifold (one straight rod).
5. Different consoles for different years are a pain in the ass to get out, have patience. Remove the shift stick. Most of them have a "C" clip holding the pin in place. Pull shift stick straight up.
6. Put the car up on good stands, get your rockers up at least 16 inches off the ground. If you don't have 4 good stands STOP NOW BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF! The best place for the stands is in the back on the cross beam that runs just in front of the rear wheels. In front put them on the front cross member. Shake the car side to side. If you feel it is safe for you and a friend, proceed with caution.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe. Stock has three bolts at the manifold and what ever hangers there are to the rear.
8. Drain the trans. You can use a 1/2 drive breaker bar. Clean the plug and re-install it. If the oil is very diry you might want to flush out the trans after you get in on the bench. Move the drain pan to the rear of the trans housing.
9. Remove for bolts in drive shaft at the differential, trans in neutral, e-brake off. You can break them loose with a box end wrench by giving it a good yank and still be able to rotate to the next bolt just in case you are working alone.
10. Slide the drive shaft out, now you know why you put the drain pan there!
11. Slide the floor jack under the oil pan, put a piece of 3/8 plywood between the jack and the pan so you won't damage it. Raise the jack untill it just touches the pan!
12. Remove cross member bolts. First gen z's bolt vertical. Later z's bolt horizontal so you might want to take some weight off by raising the jack a tad.
13. Remove the remaining bolts in the bell housing.
14. Lower the jack about 2 inches. More oil!
15. Put something under the trans for it to land on. Slide it back about 1/2 inch. Push up on the tail housing and give it a yank! It will come out and land on the floor. For those of you who are less barbarick, use a tranny jack. The 5 speed weighs 78 lbs.
16. Remove pressure plate. Inspect flywheel for heat damage. You may consider having it resurfaced or replace it.
17. Clean everything. Don't get water in the trans, flush it out with solvent. Pull the rear seal and front seal housing, pull front seal.
18. Replace gasket and seals.
19. Replace pressure plate, clutch, use alignment tool to line up clutch disk before you tighten pressure plate. Make sure tool goes in the pilot bearing in crank.
20. Put throw out bearing, clips and fork on with a little grease on the housing, fork ball and inside the bearing bore.
21. This is the hardest part. Slide the trans, in gear, under the car. Slide yourself under the car, put the trans on top of your chest. Try to keep it as straight as possible and just muscle it in. Did I mention transmission jack?
22. Start the bolts as you go. DON'T use the bolts to press the trans in! If it is to hard, (almost in) this is because the disk is not quite in line. Connect the clutch slave and have someone press in the clutch pedal while you push the trans in.
23. Reverse the order of disassembly. DON'T forget the oil, I think it holds about 2 1/2 quarts.

I made two sets of new bushings for the shift stick including the one that goes on the end of the stick. They are made out of Delrin plastic and make a nice tight shift. First guy who asks for them and promises to give me a feedback on the performance gets them for free!
Z on!