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'78 280z - Buzzing coming from behind speedometer on startup + no dash/turn signals

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'78 280z - Buzzing coming from behind speedometer on startup + no dash/turn signals

Old 11-10-2016, 12:37 PM
  #1  
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'78 280z - Buzzing coming from behind speedometer on startup + no dash/turn signals

Just got my car back from the body shop after about 4 months. When I turn the car on, I hear this buzzing sound coming from behind the speedometer. its clearly an alarm of some sort, its a buzzing/beeping sound, and its about a second long and repeats itself a handful of times.

The dash and turn signals also dont work.
With hazards on, only the left turn signals come on.
Head and tail lights are working.

Had a similar issue with lights before, had to get a new turn signal switch. I dont believe its the problem this time, but will be taking it apart soon to check. The buzz/beeping sound coming from the dash concerns me more.
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:09 AM
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The buzzer is probably the car's theft protection system. Read section BE in the FSM for more information....

***** 1975 FSM Quote *****

THEFT PROTECTION
SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
This system consists of ignition
switch, door switch and buzzer and is
designed to prevent driver from leaving
car without taking key. When L.H.
door is opened with ignition key still
in ignition switch, buzzer sounds.

************************

AFA coming back from the body shop, dirt dirt dirt dirt dirt. You'll likely find dust got into your switches.
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:06 AM
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I feel kind of dumb lol.

The buzzing was actually the seat belt warning. I never had this working before, didnt even know it was available on the car, so im assuming the body shop connected some old plug that wasnt connected originally when they put everything back together. Im used to loosing features, not gaining them!

The turn signals actually ended up being the power line from the hazard switch. I had 12v at the switch, but only 6v at the end where it goes into the flasher unit. I have continuity on that line, its just not carrying all the power it needs. Unfortunately the only way to remove that wire completely would require me removing the full dash to get back by the firewall. I just ran a new line from the switch to the flasher that taps into the old line. No issues!
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