You verified that it's a TURBO efi harness??? That ebay ad is pretty vague... it says:

Making it sound like the turbo & n/a efi harnesses are the same, when in reality they are very different.

Did you find any probs w/ yours?

I opened it up, it didn't look corroded or anything, but it seemed like if I were to tug on it a little that I could slide the wires around. I don't know if there are other ground related wires between the lower and middle connector. I noticed that's where the main bunch is that I would grab and shake when it all smoothed out. I didn't cut it out yet, as it's been fairly cold, I was thinking what I may do is just cut it out, strip the wires, wrap them together with a wire nut and electrical tape it up good. It seems like a really odd connector to throw in there, when they could have run two straight wires all the way to the grounds, and spliced the third into one of those existing ground wires, rather than putting all 3 together into a connector like that. It's also odd because even though shaking the wires fixed it, if I sit there shaking them while idling at a light or something I don't get any result in change of idle. Like it just stays fine. My idle mixture ratio is still off anyway, as I followed the procedures in the Z31 FSM that tell you how to check it via the LEDs, so it looks like I need to richen it up a little.

I called nissan parts epot and had them look up that part number and was told it was for the 83 turbo, no air conditioning. As for the grounds being loose, I completly replaced those grounds with new wires and I still have the same issue.

Did you check to see if the wire feeding the ignition module has more voltage when it's disconnected from the module. I don't know if it's possible, but maybe in the chance of a faulty ignition, it might be able to ground out or throw the voltage somewhere? Or even possibly cause a short? I'd say if you haven't at least test it to see if that wire gets the higher voltage with it disconnected.

Put in the new wiring harness. And it threw a spark for a second. Then it stopped. I think I am going to change the cas tomorrow. What else could it be?

ignitor chip, connections. basically the same thing we've gon over, we have determind its not the ecu, i doubt its the cas/dizzy, but try it out, after that you have the coil and ignitor left to look at, if its not those then ITS THE CONNECTIONS!!!! maybe you used a wrong wire you know? you siad you were having problems matching up wires to your diagram cause some stuff was different. its what i truly feel is wrong cause your have the SAME VERY SAME EXACTLY THE SAME!!!!!! problems i was and it all came down to connections

Not connections. This harness is brand new and all the crap it plugs into is clean. Its a problem somewhere else. I`ll go through everything again though, already changed the igniter and coil from the new donor car, which is was running. I also have 3 ecus now, one is a reman from nismo. *sigh* not enough daylight. Gonna change the cas tomorrow just in case.

im saying maybe you mixed them up not that the wires are bad. what kind of wire did you use when you added it in?

The wire I added in are a 14 gauge wire, not solid core. They are not mixed up. I know for a fact. It is working intermittently now, I am gonna try the cas you sent me and see what that does. But no daylight right now. Sigh. I could always pull it out and start over.

how do you mean it works intermittently? LOL i did send that to you. shit! i shoulda kept it. lol..... now i gotta re-get one if i start a turbo motor build. GHEY!

LOL I`ll sell you one for 30 plus shipping. I got 3 now at least two good.

Okay all ,y wiring is correct. It still isnt getting proper voltage to the igniter. It gonna drive me freaking insane. I need to swap the cas but it started raining. So it will have to wait till tommorow.

you said you swapped the igniter? I wouldn't be surprised if it's still bad, simply because just about everyone who's running a Z has encountered the ignition going bad. The little box attached to the bracket that holds the ignition coil. The first Z I bought the previous owner had previously replaced the ignition, the second Z I bought the ignition was going bad, I believe the ignition is going bad on my 76' 280Z, and there have been many threads across the Zdriver forums where people have had bad ignitions. Have you tried disconnecting the wire going to the ignition and checked it with your voltmeter? This way you can see if that wire is getting proper voltage. I still wouldn't be surprised if this was your problem. You had the car running and it was for the most part running fine until it died out on you after the car would have been warmed up. Another member had a car that kept dieing on him once it was warmed up, eventually it wouldn't start at all until he replaced the ignition.

Also have you tried using starting fluid or anything to make sure that it's a spark issue and possibly not a fuel issue?

Its not a fuel issue, I have pulled the rail and checked. The problem is this, The wire going from the ecu. PIN 5 to the igniter. Only has .07 volts on it. It should have, 5 volts. Now I have 3 ecus. All three run in the new donor car. I have swapped the known good igniter into my 260z from the donor so I know it is working. Then I put mine back in the donor and it works too. Now right after swapping in the wiring I had proper voltage, but when trying to start it I got no fluctuation as if the cas isnt working. The I turned it off and when I went to start it again I only had .07 volts again. My understanding of the CAS is that it tells the ecu when to power up and send signal to the igniter. So I am gonna swap that tomorrow when its not raining.

You could be on to something then. I would guess it's not wiring since you have a brand new harness and it was running before. Hopefully the CAS works out for you. I'd also say one thing to try would be to disconnect the battery for a while, to let any ECU memory reset if it has one, and see if your voltage on that wire goes back to normal.

LOL thats one of the first things I did.

i know how to fix the problem!








sell all your parts and go megasquirt.
if you cant get a standalone to run a car then you have alot of problems. lol.

Mkay I got proper voltage after swapping in the new CAS. Thanks snw. For selling me a dizzy with a seized bearing. I kid. Seriously though, I still am not getting spark. I think now I should work on that damned start signal wire. I think I may have to take out my push button ignition. I don`t want to though. Hey nismo, I will give you this turbo head If you drive up here and help me fix my car.

siezed bearing? no ways bro it spun fine. it might be dirty yes, either way it worked fine in my car. and so you have proper voltage but no spark? that shouldnt be.......

also did you see what i meant about there being no head for dizzy to connect to the oil pump shaft? but yeah just get a punch knock out the pin and swap heads if it comes to that.

I don`t think I am getting start signal now. Of course I don't have the signal wire running directly off the post on the starter, it is running off the wire coming from the push button.

EDIT: I am getting start signal, but when I turn the key on the light on the ecu goes dead and stays that way till I stop trying to start it. Now I know its supposed to turn off for a second and come back on, but I am not getting that result. I hate z cars!! I will be going through the wiring again...... I know its something simple. It has to be at this point.

Will the rb200 rear hold up to a ford 5.0 ho? If I can`t get this turbo swap running by monday Next weekend will be spent dropping the 5.0 in it. I dont really wanna swap the rear ends though. Cutting down axles is a bitch.

wtf is an rb200? some sort of sweet skyline motor? lol. the R200 will hold up fine from what ive read. people on hybridz seem to think this guys ttls1 is still R200 worthy. lol. also, if you got the proper voltage to the clip, im think inspect your ignitor chip to coil wires, the ignitor chip, the coil and then the dizzy again. you got the rotar in there? lol. cause your sure there is no spark to the plug wires right?

Right no spark coming from the damned coil. again I can manually get spark but not when starting. Did you read the part where the ecu light goes off and dosnt come back on until I stop cranking? I changed the start signal wire with a fresh 12g wire and still no change. I`m gonna call it a night cause I want to smash it now. I will still be taking suggestions though.

thats what mine did, turn ign on led lit, crank it, led goes off until its started. that doesnt sound like your problem. so i ignored it lol.