I'm not sure what to do! help!?!?!
 

So I have this REALLY big dilemma. I am not sure if I should use the stock t3 turbo on my L28ET because it's in perfectly fine condition, or if I should use my perfectly fine .60 trim T3/T4 turbonetics turbo!?!?! what should I do????!!!!???

Attachment 19397



Oh i do have this to ask though, MLS headgaskets. anyone got sources for an L MLS HG or copper even? cause the Z store last I checked is only dealing with the over priced kameari ones. which the pricing on those is a freaking joke!

and anyone got an extra set of ARP head studs to? cause once again, thezstore priced those RIDICULOUSLY high. MSA is a SEVERE disappointment lately with pricing on alot of their stuff.

I know they sell ARP head studs, and bolts in a kit on Ebay. I saw a set a short time ago. For a decent price. When I thought about getting them. As for the head gasket, I got an MLS on MSA, for my N/A. But of course it wont work on a Turbo.

The turbos, I don't know much about. Which one will produce the most boost, and last longer? Also are you building another S30 Turbo? Share some more information. We would love to hear it. ;)

Goto JEGS for ARP stuff. I got everything ARP made for the L engine for my rebuild for under $300

And I vote for the T3/T4 lol

LOL, ok the turbo question was a joke. I am definitely going to use the T3/T4. it was originally for the S2000 but I decided two things, one I want to wait a year-ish till i go turbo on it, and two, that the turbo was to small for my goals. So onto an L motor it goes.

And yes, it's a turbo S30 project. for now, there is nothing to share really. The chassis is almost done being prepped. I still am not satisfied with the suspension setup nor has a color for paint been chosen.

As for the motor. It just got the head pulled, so I think I am going to port it some, as well as the manifolds and slap an SX throttle body on it. I'm going to get this nice large HKS FMIC from my buddy, and I have to get an external wastgate mount fabbed onto the exhaust manifold. Then it'll get a custom 3inch exhaust. However i quit my job and can't through money at it at the moment haha. DAMN THEM!!!! for now the electronics will be stock haha, and I want to just re-gasket the whole motor, MLS HG it, ARP stud the head and maybe main rods. upgrade the valve springs and damper pulley for future plans of a little higher redline. nothing much. just a little. and run 10-12lbs of boost with slightly bigger injectors. then maybe next season go MSnS or just upgrade to a Z31 setup and nistune.

The MLS headgasket you got will work on ANY L motor actually. It is a nismo one to but from what I have gathered, there is some weird thing going on in the NISMO world and the MLS HG's for the L motor aren't to available from them lately.

and no worries i know ebay and jegs n bla bla bla will sell the ARP studs, but just want to see if anyone has a set they wouldn't mind getting rid of.

Indeed MLS head gaskets are becoming hard to obtain. MSA lists the 1mm as available for $249 and the Kameari universal one for $314 (in the 2010 holiday catalog), but I remember last year MSA said they don't have any more. Nissan doesn't make them anymore, so those are pretty much dried up.

Supposedly Cometic makes MLS / Copper head gaskets, but they are also hard to find. Check: http://www.racetep.com/Cometicimport.htm

You can get ARP main studs (202-5406) on ebay for about $90, and APR head studs (202-4206) for about $130. Occasionally you can find someone selling for slightly less. I wouldn't ever buy used studs as the threads will likely have damage even if they've never been installed.

If you want to build this motor properly, better find a job quick! :D

EDIT...

Just to make you feel better, I bought my 2mm MLS head gasket for $159 five years ago.... buaahahhahah!

i have a 2mm and a 1mm sucka!!! im currently using the 2mm, but always keep the other in case i change the setup to my e31.

well change it shady and un-torque your head in the proper pattern/increments and i'll take it used for free :P good ole MLS HG's can be re-used once or twice depending on certain conditions.

also nismo, i think there is a tooling charge for the cometic one. hence they don't produce it anymore in mass but can setup to make one. dicks...

and i suppose those aren't to bad of prices on the ARP stuff. as for used, lol I would only re-use ARP head studs I had purchased new and know i didn't over-torque them. Because lots of people like to do that since it is a bit more secure, but then when you un-torque them they stretch and loose tensile strength. so yeah.

you can re-use them more than twice you know.

T3 on the Honda.... pssssst!

yeah yeah I know. And the honda needs a bigger turbo. But I'll save that project will I'm making real money, which shouldn't be long, done with school for good in 3 weeks. W00T!


Ok so now today I decided to work on the manifolds and such. I had this SX TB laying around and modified the linkage, now do I remember correctly in that the SX TPS can be used? as pictured, and I'll remove the wire pig tail section.
Attachment 19356

Also, I ported the turbo flange on the manifold cause DAMN that thing wasn't even close to matching the gasket... like DAMN! a good 1/4 difference at least in one section.

Not after doing that and clocking the hot side of the turbo, I mounted it to find this:

Attachment 19357
Attachment 19358

that is 1mm of clearance between the compressor housing and the manifold. And if I clock the compressor housing to match the stock turbo clocking it hits the manifold. Soooooo, any one got any picks of their non-standard clocking? cause I will be putting on a nice big HKS front mount right away, so it doesn't need to be in the stock position, but since the engine is on a stand, I can't tell how I would like to clock it. Also, WTF how is a t3/t4 60 trim THAT close to the manifold? that's ridiculous, and people stick GT35's on the stock manifold? HOW!?!? haha

Now in porting my intake manifold throat, I realized, this SUCKS! and it's going very very slow, any one got any recommended tips cause right now I've used a dremel with 3 different carbide tips but the are all so small, and then a air rotary die with a larger tip. the kind that looks like a grooved metal cone. I'd post a pic but eh...

so far:

Attachment 19359

I got much much more to do...

and last but not least, suggestions for mounting the external wastegate. I was jsut going to put in on the back of the flange for the DP but looking at the hole for where there could have been an internal gate
Attachment 19360

It's ridiculously small! and there is no way of opening that up. so I gotta mound it to the manifold somewhere, any good ideas? the only place I could see one going is on the underside of the manifold behind the turbo. I'll plumb a pipe from there down a good foot so if the wastegate ever needs fixin it's easily accessible and not tucked away behind the turbo.

basically this:
http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/e..._004_small.jpg

sorry for the cell phone pic quality.

#1: Yes, use the SX (KA24DE) TPS with the turbo ecu.

#2: You might have to clock the compressor down & use a bend to shoot it forward (you're going to run an IC anyway right?), which there should still be room for a bend... maybe tight w/ the a/c pump. Have you thought about using a manifold to turbo spacer flange? You could get one w/ an external wastegate port too... kill 2 birds w/ one stone.

My T3/T4 is a very tight fit, but still works. The coupler actually rubs the PCV port.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-a...37912_7360.jpg

#3: Use a carbide tooth bit. I bought several of these from my local "Industrial Supply" store for $10 - $20 each.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...c/carbide1.jpg

#4: Use this if you are going external wastegate: (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories)

http://www.dnamotoring.com/speeddadd...DP-5B-T3T4.jpg

I already got a down pipe that was for the S2000, so all i'd have to do is cut the welds on the flange with my buddies band saw and re-weld it in the position I like.

thanks and thanks.

Also I have seen the spacer with external port, but I wasn't sure if I'd run into issues then with clearance with the engine bay walls or the steering shaft. Plus, I gots no idea where those spacers even come from! lol.

#3: Use a carbide tooth bit. I bought several of these from my local "Industrial Supply" store for $10 - $20 each.

Attachment 19355

Yup these are awesome - 'cept you don't want that style for Aluminum as it gums up. You want one that is a straight spiral cut without the notches down the length of the cutting edge....

#4: Use this if you are going external wastegate: (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories)

http://www.dnamotoring.com/speeddadd...DP-5B-T3T4.jpg

Nice - do they have a 3" version that would work?

Meaning you don't know where to get them, or that you don't trust who fab'd them?

Looks like it's 2.5" thick... so do you have 2.5" of room to the right of the turbo?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T3...Q5fAccessories

http://www.tdamotorsports.com/pictur...35WG-T3_01.jpg

http://www.tdamotorsports.com/pictur...35WG-T3_04.jpg



On the S130, it might be really close to the steering shaft...


http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...8_173_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...8_257_full.jpg


On the S30... Without the monster stock actuator, there would be more room...


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7758598_n.jpg

IDK! motors not in the car so I have no clue about clearance towards the drivers side, I guess this turbo is bigger than I thought... and ebay again huh? interesting. lol.

thanks, I think that answers everything, plus my dad is being a whiney ass so i may just end up selling all this stuff instead of combining my supplies and work onto "his" car... if he isn't going to be grateful and act selfish about this crap then he can suck it cause that turbonetics turbo and setup I was planning on aint cheap!. lol. And he is talking about, after using MY PRIMER on the the 76 S30 chassis and after haveing all the rust cut out and new metal welded in all new poly bushings basically a sparkling chassis that would only need paint, selling the rolling chassis and putting the turbo in is all original fully restored 75 S30. Which that thing is so sloppy feeling in the clutch and the suspension cause all the bushings are worn, otherwise it looks great inside and out. But yeah way to much effort on my part to deal with this deusch-baggery.

thread is back! I think I got everything figured out. Just want input on this. I'm thinking I may have the room to squeez the bigger turbo in there with that 2.5inch flange with wastegate mount. This is the pics I have from my old 260Z turbo. thoughts?
Attachment 19305

Attachment 19306

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I'm thinking it will clear

it'll work, seems as though "bigphil" is using one on his GT35, so my t3/t4 shouldn't be an issue for clearance.

http://www.youtube.com/user/turbo280...36/Cnwv6ODzqzk

Good to hear

ugh, god damnit, glad I dug through the vids more. That flange adapter def wont work because you can't fit the nuts onto the studs by the wastgate flange

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hO9oL_0MfLw

first 2 mins explains it all. So I'm just gonna weld on a flange to the manifold for the external wastegate. But Now I've got to deal with the near ZERO clearance between the compressor housing and manifold... hmmmm...

nismo or bleach, you should donate a Z31 ECU, MAF, and chopper wheel to me. I know you guys are practically made of those things...

I am made of those things... and I have the 16-bit version! Genesis ... SEGA

I'm glad somebody is still building z-cars and using this forum...

LOL, tell me about it... gimmeeee