BoulderZ

Finally getting around to posting the pics of the Modern Motorsports rear disc conversion installation I did a few weeks ago, just for others reference in considering what it looks like, etc. Note: I had to temporarily remove the calipers until I can buy new wheels (and tires) to clear them. My old school 14" alloy aftermarket wheels from the PO just *barely* rubbed.
Dave

snwbrderphat540

wow that looks rediculously easy. i was planning on getting those sometime in the not to distant future

NismoPick

BoulderZ

Thanks! And wow, a double worship-smiley from NismoPick! Made my week!
And thank you, both, for not making fun of my bad camera work.

It really is that easy, too. Modern Motorsports puts together a great kit, and they're very professional to deal with. Note: the lines aren't hooked up in those photos. You actually remove the lines back at the junction, not just the flex lines. Things I did to make it simpler:

I'd already stripped down the whole driveline and suspension, getting all the parts powdercoated, getting the fasteners replated, replacing the rubber bushings with the urethane kit, replacing the u-joints, installing Tokico springs and blue tubes, sandblast and paint the half-shafts and diff, polish the diff cover, etc., etc. So, it was like working on a brand new machine at this point, with everything clean and new.

While doing all that, I removed the stub axles and replaced the bearings and seals (and re-packed with synthetic grease from AmSoil). This let me just un-bolt the drum backing plates, rather than cut them off. This keeps them intact should I ever go back to drums for an as-stock restore, or if someone else wants/needs them. It's kind of over-kill, but I really hate destroying otherwise serviceable parts.

Hard parts:
You must have either the time to go hunt down and rebuild 240SX calipers from the junkyard or pay the money to just buy them new.
If you do the stub-axles and hubs, you must have a hydraulic press, a friend with a hydraulic press, or take the assembly to a local machine shop.

Hindsight lessons:
Don't need that flexline/hardline bracket on the hub housing.
Turns out old-school alloy wheels can be kind of thick and chunky, and if they're 14s, they may not fit with this kit. Oops, oh well. The PO had already curb-surfed a chunk out of one of them anyway, so no huge loss there.

Can't wait to try them out!
thanks,
Dave

Darrel

now that's some crappy camera work, other than that it real nice. :-D

BoulderZ

I should add that one step that made it possible at all is living near Darrel and his Spindle Pin Puller. I've heard it would look better with some 280zx wheels, though...
Dave

snwbrderphat540

now wait un momento, why do you have to remove the lines all the way back from the junction?

BoulderZ

Sorry for the long delay in answering. I was out of town for just over a month, and there was a long list of non-Z must-do's by the time I got back. Anyway, the short answer is that the hard line bracket by the fender well is at a weird angle for the 240 SX caliper. So, Modern Motorsports sends stainless braided lines long enough to go up above the diff to the junction, and the fittings to match it. One of the customer installs on their website shows a good photo of it, http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Cali...akeupgrade.htm
The angle for the line is much less harsh than if you used the stock location/bracket. I finished hooking up mine this weekend (finally got my new wheels and tires), and it does make for a nice clean routing. I will try to post some pictures sometime this week. Again, sorry my reply took so long.
cheers,
Dave