The_MuffinMan25

I had asked my friend if I wanted to raise the max speed of my Z would the most effective way to do it be buy bigger turbos? He responded like an ignorant person and said yeah Get a big single turbo set-up. I responded saying I didn't even think it would work, since basically every component is seperate from eachother. He kept up with some ignorant talk which I basically ignored.

I looked it up online just to see if he wasn't completely full of crap and I read about the "VG30DET" All I know about it is that it was never brought over here.

I read on some forum that a user had heard of a single turbo kit for the Z32 but couldn't recall who made it.

I'm not really interested in a single turbo set-up seems like too much hassle when I could just buy 2 larger turbo's or 2 turbos the size that someone would run in a single turbo set-up and make crazy power and reach higher MPH's

I was just wondering if you know of a single turbo conversion kit for the Z32 (I searched for a lil bit to no avail) Also if the VG30DET intake bolts directly onto the DETT engine? Any links to threads with a single turbo swapped Z32 would be interesting to look at aswell.

I dont really see the benefit in it other than less parts to worry about failing?

Dont harp on me about this I dont want to do it just want to educate myself.

Thanks Tim

CanyonCarver

I have a 2+2 Z that was swapped to a TT and then converted to a single turbo. The guy that did the single-T conversion said it ran like a n/a until around 5000 rpm, and then it was OH **** FAST. I think the T66 turbo is a little bit too big for a 3.0 motor myself. The whole setup is custom fabbed including a single 3" exhaust out back. I bought the car just to get the TT block, heads, meanifolds, and other parts. The single T setup will be for sale in the spring.

b300z

check this forum out

http://vgpowered.com/phpBB3/

it looks like thered be a fitment issue with the intake and front tower using a DET manifold

hoov100

the DET is a pile of crap from factory, so unless you plan on actually building a motor, with lots of custom tuning that option should be left out, try and get a TT motor, then just make a set of custom intake and exhaust manifolds to support the single huge turbo and have some fun tuning it.

ZLover4Life

Ignorant people amuse me.

And larger turbos won't raise your top speed. If you car does not have an aftermarket ECU, your ECU is limiting your top speed to 155. If you have an aftermarket ECU, then your top speed is limited by power... in which case, just about any aftermarket turbos would give you enough horsepower to reach the 197mph top speed mandated by the rev limiter and gearing.. Raise the limiter and you risk blowing your valvetrain. That is, of course, if your engine doesn't blow from overheating because of that intercooler, first.

But realistically, why do you think 155 isn't fast enough? I've gone 145 once or twice and that was more than enough for me.

KasbeKZ

yeah 125 was enough for me. lol the fastest i ever went, there wasn't another car on the road except for one cop that i passed. he didn't turn around though. so lucky.

but i'll go ahead and put my vote in on this subject and say it's not worth the time. it's a lot easier to upgrade your current system rather than replace it all and MAYBE get better performance.

napoleonzheking

155 is the top speed in the NA. the ECU doesn't limit it in the NA or the TT. 155 top speed for na due to gearing, 197 is top speed in TT due to gearing.

KasbeKZ

i've heard in many places that the N/A is governed by the ECU at 150 and the tt at 155.

The_MuffinMan25

Really do you have to call me ignorant... I say I'm just trying to educate myself on a subject. (unless you were referring to my friends ignorant suggestion)

Thanks you for the info on 197mph being the max speed based on gearing that is useful information I didn't know. I know I would need an aftermarket ECU to remove the 155mph governor.

I cant comment on your insult on my FMIC because It will be some time before I fill up the gas tank and re-register it to find out how it hold up temperature wise. Nor am I praising the FMIC for a Z32 I stated my reasons why I got it on my post about it, enough said.

hoov100 I know the DET is garbage from the factory I read that much when I read about the engine last night. I was merely reffering to the intake manifold off of it

KasbeKZ I second no on single turbo, as I said I was just trying to educate myself on it I'm not interested in doing it.

I know more power means higher top speed (at least until I hit that 197mph wall) will our stock turbos even get us to that point. I hit 155mph in my Z a month or so back (literally no traffic, straight highway, and theres was a downward incline for most of the climb to 155) I know theres plenty of power to be made with my engine and stock turbo's but even with raising the boost level wont the stock turbo's max out (how fast they can spin)

Also increasing the size of the rear tires (overall diameter) would help to increase the top speed of the vehicle correct. (I assume that 197mph wall includes stock wheels and tire size when factoring in the Transmission, and differential gearing, along with maximum engine RPM)

Having an internal balance set-up (or a lightweight rotating assembly) plus cams that are designed for more top end power at higher ranges would also increase the Max speed of the vehicle correct?

Also lowering the car and adding a lip and possibly different rear spoiler would help downforce and help make reaching high speeds like that more attainable and safer correct?

It's just fun to think about what I can do to make the Z reach incredible top speeds. I had originally wanted my Z as a DD but I think I want to make it more of a track car/cruiser. Though I still plan to drive it often as possible I just don't think once I get it on the road again that I'll drive it to school or work everyday.

Tips, help, and educational materials greatly appreciated!

Tim

ZLover4Life

I was calling your genius friend who said "go single turbo" ignorant.

ZLover4Life

Liar. The ECU DOES limit the top speed for BOTH the NA and TT. And the NA's top speed limited by a 7000rpm limiter and stock gearing is, in fact, 167mph (assuming stock wheel/tire sizes). With the limiter at 7450rpm (the JWT standard tune), the mechanical top end becomes 178mph.

Adjust the final drive to 4.081...
http://www.geocities.com/z_design_st..._300zx_tt.html

hoov100

if you wanted power and speed, but have yet to disconnect the speed limiter you have bigger problems to deal with, honestly before changing the oil when i buy a car, the speed limiter and/or governor is the first thing removed. and as far as I'm concerned with gearing, hell richmond sells gears in any ratio you want for the r230 for only a few hundred $$

KasbeKZ

isn't it programmed into the ECU? is it really a box that can just come off?

snwbrderphat540

yeah its in the ECU im not really sure what hoov is talking about. lol. they both are limited to 155 but honestly the NA will take a year to reach 155 anyways i hit 150 i think and that was a pain in the *** with my NA it just starts to slow like crazy around 125 in the NA. so not like its a big deal. BUT you should technically be able to put in a switch at the electronic speed sensor so your speedo will stop working but you wont have a limiter any more cause the ecu wont get a MPH reading.

KasbeKZ

i'll take your word for that. it felt to me that it hoped up to 120 at a decent pace, but i don't see myself trying for more on state roads.

hoov100

there was a page online that told what you had to do, but i cant seem to find it.

The_MuffinMan25

Yeah the NA's have lower gears in the rear (higher numerically) hence the lower max speed...I know I could buy gears and achieve higher rates of speed but I honestly am not interested in doing anything to the diff other than change the fluid...plus then I'd lose my bottom end (haha then again if I can get the car to go over 200mph I don't think I'll have to worry about my acceleration from a stop)

Zlover 1st I'm glad I thought about it and edited my post to add in the thing about you possibly commenting on my buddy I would have felt like an a$$. 2nd Thanks for that calculator. Guess with a 55 series tire in the rear I can hit the 200mph mark. Or throw some some 55 series on my 17's I have and hit even higher...that would be way too intense tho!

Thanks for the info.

hoov100 if you find that article on the limiter eliminate post it up I'd like to look into that, would be a nice little DIY when I'm bored at home.

ZLover4Life

You cannot eliminate the Z32's limiter without knowing how to reflash an ECU. For which you essentially need the hardware, software, and knowledge to program an ECU, as well as the soldering skills to remove the old chip and install the new one.

How can I be so sure? Because you actually cannot possibly eliminate the speed limiter - it is a component of the ECU program. What JWT, Ash, and ZTuner do to simulate this affect is to actually set the speed limiter to 300mph. Since the Z32 won't ever reach that speed (the Jun/Blitz one only hit 261mph), it is as if there is no speed limiter.

It can be relatively easily removed from less electronic cars... but nothing is that simple with the Z32 and we all know that.

snwbrderphat540

but what about my idea, putting in a toggle switch to put a break in the line from the speed sensor so the ecu doesnt and obviously the speedo doesnt get the speed reading. its genious! but pointless

NismoPick

I'm sure the speed sensor does more than just "regulate speed". As in... signals the speedometer / odometer. Even the old school Z31T ecu required signal from the speed sensor to do a "burn cycle" for the MAF.

Technically... it may work, but the side effects are many.

ZLover4Life

I would usually agree with you... if I didn't have first hand experience otherwise. The wire from my speed sensor has been broken somewhere for a couple years... no adverse affects on performance except for the fact that HICAS doesn't work and the steering gets stiff (both require a speed signal). And I'm not sure if I'd really feel comfortable with those two problems at high speed (yes, I am a HICAS supporter). (If it had a huge affect on things like MAF signals, I'm confident I couldn't have done 469rwhp.) So Eric may be correct... a toggle switch may work... but I wouldn't kill a speed signal by choice.

The_MuffinMan25

If I ran that toggle switch I'd have to take my nav unit with my on the over 155mph runs so I can actually see how fast I'm going.

Zlover- I agree with HICAS "SUPER HICAS" that is. when ever it's going to rain (or if I was actually driving my car this winter) I just take the fuse out and whaallah! no more Hicas. I feel its safer it's way too easy to get the car sideways with HICAS engaged. I'd hate if I had a 90-94. I know you can just drive very carefully and be fine but still I've been in situations where I felt I was driving normally and the car still wanted to get the backend out (it was obviously on a wet surface)

Then again now that im going to be driving like a senior citizen when I get the Z back on the road I probably wouldn't have any issues.

I just wanted to ask theres no adverse effect on my Z when I pull the HICAS fuse out correct? (obviously talking about 95-96 Z's)

I have driven on the exact same road in the exact same conditions (water on the street) and know the difference I just want to make sure as long as the wheels are straight when I pull out the fuse theres no chance of the rear tires moving to one side or the other right? (Like if I was driving straight but the rear wheels turned by themselves and got stuck to the right or something)

I haven't had any issue or driving condition that let me think it could happen but I want to make sure.

ZLover4Life

No, you actually disagree. I'm saying HICAS is not bad and I would want it working at high speeds... you're saying it causes problems. Aside from being heavy, there is no valid reason for a regular street-driven Z32 to have its HICAS disabled. At high speeds it only acts as a lane-changing aide in that the rear wheels turn in the same direction as the front wheels so the car glides over. Lower speeds are when the HICAS steers the opposite direction to pivot the car faster, and even then only truly experienced drivers will be able to legitimately say that it hinders their performance (and that's often because it affects how the car might powerslide or respond when exiting a corner hard). It helps the majority of drivers. And in the wet, it helps maintain grip by keeping the car balanced better in turns. Better balance means the weight is more evenly distributed over all four tires, thus taking advantage of as much grip as possible.

And if the HICAS is disabled (whether it be the hydraulic or electronic systems), the rear steering arms are static. They won't shimmy for any valid reason.

rtmorgan

i would have to say i agree with zlover on the hicas argument i drove my car at pir and then my buddy's right after his has the hicas since his is turbo of course you know that, anyways i do prefer the hicas to be in the car rather than not (he has a stock suspension just like me) and i liked the feel better. but i guess ill just have to live without it since i have a slicktop.

KasbeKZ

yeah the one time i drove a turbo it was a pretty nice feeling to have that swing around affect in the back. much liked.