Cburg

Hello Everyone,

This is my first post here but I am sure that it will not be my last. In any case I have what to most of you is a strange question.

Where would the outside mirror controls be located on a 1995 300zx. My son bought one last Fall in the hopes of restoring it. But he has yet to begin. he told me the other day he wants to just drive it for the summer and then begin this fall to tear it down.

One thing this car needs is replacement outside mirrors. I want to just pick up a set to give him for his birthday but I can not figure out if it has powered mirrors or not. I do not want to get the wrong ones. I do not see anything on the driver door nor do I see anything elsewhere at looks like a mirror control. But I wanted to ask the you, the experts, just where is the control is so I am sure one way or the other.

Thanks in advance for your help. and I am sure I have at least a few of you laughing at this question but I am honestly asking....

Cburg

rogerz

on the console between the seats should be two upright *****. these are the adjustment ***** for the mirrors. good luck finding new ones anyplace but ebay. my experience the mirrors seem to hold up fine except for the A***** in the Dodge RAm pickup who slam their doors into them opening a door and break the housing. Does Dodge require an A***** certificate before they sell them to someone?

Check the fuses.

below some advice for z31 owners to avoid future problems.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

Take the schematic from the FSM down to kinkos and have them blow it up to 11x17. Much easier to read unless you are a keen eyed twenty something. get fsm at xenonzcar.com

if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox, digital or analog dash. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.

Haunt the junkyard for parts if you see any just take stuff. door handles break. ignitor. maf. window switches both sides.

and oh yeah i almost forgot change out the slave and master cylinder for the clutch hydraulics Cheap and easy plus you aren't stranded by the side of the road in pouring rain at 0300 (ask my son)

Cburg

Thanks for all the great information. I agree that when posting I should include "all" the info on the car to get the best results. In this case, I was lazy and did not have the info at the time I posted.

Great Tips that I will pass on to my son.

Thanks again!

Cburg

rogerz

for some reason the site censor didn't like switches in the above and instead did ****
hope you figured it out anyway the rest is valid after having owned and improved three z31