A couple questions on my z31 project
#1
A couple questions on my z31 project
hello everyone,
I have an N/A manual 86 300zx
its painted green but i have the red interior.
soo i recently found a rusted out 84 50th anniversary z
it has the black interior (solves my red interior prob). It has the turbo engine which i plan to just swaps everythings into the other car.
so to the questions
-the turbo engine is automatic, i wanna keep it manual, what do i have to do to get my n/a 5spd onto the turbo engine and will i have to look for a turbo manual ecu?
-the 84 also has a digital dash(ive always wanted one)(i know they suck) will i have any problems with it since the dash was on an automatic?
-since im gonna pull the engine out, should i go ahead and do anything to the turbo engine now that i have it out? Maintenance,etc?
-since im going to pull the engine, might as well clean up/ paint the engine bay, does anyone have a link to a thread where they show you how to wire tuck, vaccum lines delete, and just on what else i can take outa the bay to make it cleaner.
if you can think of any other problems ill run into, PLEASE LET ME KNOW
sorry if its alot of questions, just not even sure where to start
thanks guys
I have an N/A manual 86 300zx
its painted green but i have the red interior.
soo i recently found a rusted out 84 50th anniversary z
it has the black interior (solves my red interior prob). It has the turbo engine which i plan to just swaps everythings into the other car.
so to the questions
-the turbo engine is automatic, i wanna keep it manual, what do i have to do to get my n/a 5spd onto the turbo engine and will i have to look for a turbo manual ecu?
-the 84 also has a digital dash(ive always wanted one)(i know they suck) will i have any problems with it since the dash was on an automatic?
-since im gonna pull the engine out, should i go ahead and do anything to the turbo engine now that i have it out? Maintenance,etc?
-since im going to pull the engine, might as well clean up/ paint the engine bay, does anyone have a link to a thread where they show you how to wire tuck, vaccum lines delete, and just on what else i can take outa the bay to make it cleaner.
if you can think of any other problems ill run into, PLEASE LET ME KNOW
sorry if its alot of questions, just not even sure where to start
thanks guys
#2
Since the 86 is already manual, and you are keeping that transmission in that car, swapping the 84AE Turbo engine should be a no brainer. You might need a 84 Turbo Manual ECU to go with the 84AE Turbo engine, as well as ensure the O2 sensor is the correct one.
This is the part number for the 84T manual ECU.
1984 23710-02P02/A18-617370
1984 23710-02P03/A18-635374
The AE probably has the 84 Turbo Auto ECU part numbers:
1984 23710-02P12/A18-618371
1984 23710-02P13/A18-636375
I hope someone else verifies if you need the ECU.
And of course, do all you are going to do the AE engine before putting it in the 86.
And one last thing, can you get the VIN off the parted out AE for the Z31 registry? I will make sure the data gets put in the registry to its present condition.
This is the part number for the 84T manual ECU.
1984 23710-02P02/A18-617370
1984 23710-02P03/A18-635374
The AE probably has the 84 Turbo Auto ECU part numbers:
1984 23710-02P12/A18-618371
1984 23710-02P13/A18-636375
I hope someone else verifies if you need the ECU.
And of course, do all you are going to do the AE engine before putting it in the 86.
And one last thing, can you get the VIN off the parted out AE for the Z31 registry? I will make sure the data gets put in the registry to its present condition.
Last edited by FlyingT; 08-18-2014 at 11:37 AM.
#3
#4
The Z31 registry is a place where the status of each Z31 is logged, whether it is junk, drivable being restored, etc. Since there were only 5000 AEs produced, it is nice to track them as well as the 88 Shiros.
The Nissan Z and SX Registry
The Nissan Z and SX Registry
#6
This...
If you are swapping in the entire VG30ET (turbo engine), then you will use the turbo ecu and O2 sensor. Since you are keeping the 5speed in the car and want to use it... not sure what the problem is?
Here's an "auto to manual swap" guide (first Google-machine result):
XenonZ31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap
Here's an "auto to manual swap" guide (first Google-machine result):
XenonZ31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap
#7
timing belt and seals while engine is out. much easier to get stuff. see if need new radiator. twer me I'd put in a new alternator. new clutch throw out bearing clutch fork fulcrum pin, pilot bearing, main seal. redo wiring to injectors with good quality connectors. replace chts. I throw out all that idle air crap hanging off the left side of the plenum usually just causes problems at the age of the machinery. replace all your vacuum lines.
replace clutch hydraulics (master/slave). Inspect and refurbish if needed your battery cables. negative should go first to a bolt in the body then to the bell housing (starter).
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
that oughta get you started. go to ZCCA.org and see if there is a club near you attend a meeting make friends. nice place to get info and maybe a helping hand. if near seattle check out ZCCW.org
replace clutch hydraulics (master/slave). Inspect and refurbish if needed your battery cables. negative should go first to a bolt in the body then to the bell housing (starter).
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
that oughta get you started. go to ZCCA.org and see if there is a club near you attend a meeting make friends. nice place to get info and maybe a helping hand. if near seattle check out ZCCW.org
#8
digi dash one thing sure you would need to change out the fuel level sender. Performance Nissan 150 bucks. I took out the compass and accelerometer put in gages for fuel pressure and boost. Harbor Freight just right 20 each. need to ream out the plastic cover to fit the new gage. make it tight they sit right there like factory install
#9
This...
If you are swapping in the entire VG30ET (turbo engine), then you will use the turbo ecu and O2 sensor. Since you are keeping the 5speed in the car and want to use it... not sure what the problem is?
Here's an "auto to manual swap" guide (first Google-machine result):
XenonZ31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap
If you are swapping in the entire VG30ET (turbo engine), then you will use the turbo ecu and O2 sensor. Since you are keeping the 5speed in the car and want to use it... not sure what the problem is?
Here's an "auto to manual swap" guide (first Google-machine result):
XenonZ31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap
its all coming to me slowly, you guys have been a ton of help and still are, and the o2 sensor will be somewere on the exhaust?
#10
timing belt and seals while engine is out. much easier to get stuff. see if need new radiator. twer me I'd put in a new alternator. new clutch throw out bearing clutch fork fulcrum pin, pilot bearing, main seal. redo wiring to injectors with good quality connectors. replace chts. I throw out all that idle air crap hanging off the left side of the plenum usually just causes problems at the age of the machinery. replace all your vacuum lines.
replace clutch hydraulics (master/slave). Inspect and refurbish if needed your battery cables. negative should go first to a bolt in the body then to the bell housing (starter).
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
that oughta get you started. go to ZCCA.org and see if there is a club near you attend a meeting make friends. nice place to get info and maybe a helping hand. if near seattle check out ZCCW.org
replace clutch hydraulics (master/slave). Inspect and refurbish if needed your battery cables. negative should go first to a bolt in the body then to the bell housing (starter).
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
that oughta get you started. go to ZCCA.org and see if there is a club near you attend a meeting make friends. nice place to get info and maybe a helping hand. if near seattle check out ZCCW.org
just wondering when you said " I throw out all that idle air crap hanging off the left side of the plenum usually just causes problems at the age of the machinery."
is there a thread that says more about this? what will keep the cars idle?
i got honestly would love nothing more than removing extra CRAP of the engine and engine bay.
#11
This...
If you are swapping in the entire VG30ET (turbo engine), then you will use the turbo ecu and O2 sensor. Since you are keeping the 5speed in the car and want to use it... not sure what the problem is?
Here's an "auto to manual swap" guide (first Google-machine result):
XenonZ31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap
If you are swapping in the entire VG30ET (turbo engine), then you will use the turbo ecu and O2 sensor. Since you are keeping the 5speed in the car and want to use it... not sure what the problem is?
Here's an "auto to manual swap" guide (first Google-machine result):
XenonZ31 Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bookmarks