ch33z3x

So I'm changing the oil on my Shiro this week. I've never done an oil change on a turbo car. I know the turbo is oil cooled, so my question is: How do I ensure that all the oil is out of the turbo? I don't like the idea of getting most of it out and having whatever is left in the oil lines for the turbo/turbo itself contaminating my new oil. Also, is an oil flush a good idea? The last thing I want is to have the bearings in turbo go kaput because the oil isn't viscous while the flush is running.

rogerz

Boy you got a lot to learn. the turbo drains (gravity) into the sump. you might also look up the definition of viscous before you start throwing big words around. you have a lot of ambitious ideas which if you don't learn your car first will come to naught.

ch33z3x

I learn by doing, for sure. It'll be a slow but well documented process. Also, viscous relates to the thickness of the fluid, in this case oil. I'm pretty sure I used it correctly. Maybe I should have said 'as viscous as it normally is.' Haha I knew you guys would be abrasive, the mazda guys (especially the ones that know what they're talking about) are just the same. Thanks again!

LA KINGS

Bro,

Viscosity is the resistance to flow. Motor oil has a higher viscosity than lets say water, because it is thicker and therefore resists flow more. Something that would have a higher viscosity than motor oil would be honey. Its that simple.


Why are you worried about draining "all" of the oil out of your engine anyways? If you look at an engine, the oil pan is located on the very bottom, which is why you need an oil pump to send the oil upwards. When the engine is off the oil pump doesnt do ****. Gravity does its thing and pulls "all" of your oil down into the pan. And just like the engine, a turbochargers oil line is located on the bottom and connects straight into the oil pan. So, both of them naturally want to drain by design.

Its an engine...and it has a drain plug. You are complicating a simple simple thing. And bro the miniscule amount of oil that is left in the lines when you drain it and what not is not "contaminating" anything. As long as it is indeed oil, it will lubricate like oil is designed to do. Again you are complicating a simple thing.

Ummmm.....question, What the **** does an oil flush consist of? and who is trying to sell you that service? he might also do valve jobs on 13B.

And bearings on a turbo wear out after time from use. no oil change can change that. Before you change the oil you should read the FSM front to back a couple times.

LA KINGS

****ing facepalm. BRO the viscosity of the oil does not change that dramatically at operating temp compared to when its cold. If that is what you are trying to say, because heat is the only thing that really changes the viscosity, but I still have no ****ing clue how viscosity has anything to do with draining oil. Try this....

Next time your at a parts store open a quart of oil and turn it upside down and let me know if the oil is having any problems with viscosity as it drains all over the floor.

Your "documented learning process" on the other hand is going to be extremely viscous.

PredatorZ

Shredded Him. On the bright side he is trying, and he did reach out for help. He is just at the bottom of the learning curve. A place I know I had to teach myself out of. But as stated, the FSM is your buddy, and mastering forums does help to not say silly things, or just not fully understanding a words definition, again a learning point. But ya, just drain the oil, change the filter and replace the oil.. presto, easy stuff.

zxguy1986

ch33z3x, I know what you mean. And I like it. When you set out to 'change your oil,' you expect to change ALL of it. I remember oil changes when the dipstick showed me brand new oil that wasn't clear. It still held sludge from the old oil. Pissed me off no end. Made my new filter dirty, too.

The critical feature of lubricating oil is its viscosity, not its clarity. No need to go crazy about clarity. Change your oil at the intervals recommended by the oil mfr - or even a little after - and you will be ok. Even when the stick shows clear oil, check it in a week. It collects crap from the valves, rings and pistons like you'd expect. No big deal. Keep your viscosity up and no problem.

If you really want to be a cleanin' fanatic with an old car, drop the oil pan, scrape and shine the bottom of it. Crud settles there. Some of it gets into your new oil. Go crazy.

Qaanaaq-Liaaq

You have a 1988 model which has a coolant line connected to the turbo. Oil lubricates the turbo. Coolant cools the turbo.

How do you ensure that all the oil is out of the turbo? You could attach a vacuum to the oil line and suck out every last drop of oil. That would be overkill though. Like the others who've posted above have said: gravity does the job. The oil filter keeps the oil clean. Change the oil filter when you change the oil.

ch33z3x

Ok thanks guys. Wasn't sure about the oil being completely drained by gravity. LA kings, I'm not your bro. Also, if you don't k ow what an oil flush is, you shouldn't be talking about my documented learning process.

AZ-ZBum

You WANT oil to be left in there. Not having oil in the engine is a very bad idea.

An oil change on a turbo car is no different than on a non-turbo car. Just pull the plug, drain the oil. Change the filter. Put the plug back in. Add oil. Just like any other car.