Fortitude57

Hello everyone,

I just purchased my first Z car. 1988 300zx N/A. She has a M/T, 129k, T-Tops. Black 2 seater. I have only had this car for a full day and so far I love it.

The car itself is solid, needing only minor TLC. Also, I didn't notice when I bought it but I have the "dreaded clunk". I took a look last night and it looks like the diff mount is bad. Not to upset, seems like a right a passage.

Look forward to adventures in this beauty.

-Fortitude

NismoPick

w00t! Welcome to ZDriver! Post pics!

Fortitude57

This is all I have right now. Will post more.

NismoPick

Oh my! Three thumbs up!!!

rogerz

unless the PO was as meticulous about the running as about the exterior. I usually find this a rare combination so here are some things to doin the near future that will make your life easier. She is a beauty tho.

Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone.

Zuphoria

Looks like a Turbo car, Nice N/A!!!! What you pick her up for?

Fortitude57

Thanks!

I paid $2500 for the car.

Guy lacked on the interior. Clips missing, some screws, rear carpet was pulled out. As for the electronics I will take your advice and look into all of that. The suspension has new tie rods, ball joints, shocks. Tires are new out back, half life left on fronts.

Only issues I have found minus the interior is the "rear end clunk". Which the diff mount looks toast. D/S caliper hangs up causing a pull to the right when heavy on the brakes; and the e-brake is not working. Other then that shes pretty sound so far.

Skully

Gorgeous! Welcome

Zuphoria

Make sure you add yourself to the Registry
The Nissan Z and SX Registry

82-280ZX

NICE CAR MAN

rogerz

check out the e brake operation. z31 notorious for having stuck cables and not releasing one of the rear brakes. could be your pulling problem. not much of a job to pull the front calipers clean and lubricate plus new pads. Jackstands and jack required of course but you can rent that stuff if need be. Wouldn't hurt to change brake fluid anyway unless it is crystal clear and not the color of india ink. Rears somewhat trickier as you have to deal with the e brake cable attached to them. Haunt the junkyards you might come up with stuff you need.

reddzx

The rear E-brake cables like to freeze up and are hard to free up. This will cause your rear brakes to drag

zxguy1986

Ditto on the handbrake cable with Z31. I know of one guy who swore he took it off, forced lubricant into the sheath and got the cable freed up. I took mine off, tried everything and then bought a replacement (aftermarket, about $170, fit and worked great.)

Rear mounts, yes, they do get dried out and chopped up over time, are pretty easy to get to, not too expensive to buy aftermarket - and they work great. The other source of an annoying CLUNK is the U-joint on the drive shaft. Pretty quick shaft replacement there - and aftermarket shafts are available ($120?) Nissan wanted over $600 for OEM. Skip that.

Fortitude57

Alright, so I have had the car for a couple weeks now so I am ordering the following parts.

- Timing belt kit
- Diff Mount
- Rear carpet
- New front brakes (Pads/Calipers)
- CHTS - Because why the hell not
- New muffler hanger (held up by hose clamp)

Sadly I have found a couple more issues. There seems to be a fuel leak somewhere. Only smell it sometimes. From the research I have done I have it down to three spots I am checking tonight. 1) 3-Way connector behind RF Wheel well 2) U-Shaped hose under air filter 3) Fuel pump lines themselves. Also while inspecting the car yesterday my CV Shaft boots are toast (buying Easy Boot) and the passenger side frame rail needs a little rust repair (nothing major).

As for "fun" work. I am starting to refurbish the interior. The plastic is in pretty good shape, just going to do a deep clean on them. Also, I am using my old USMC desert uniforms to re-upholster the interior. Starting with the shift boot to see how it looks. I will post pictures throughout the process.

If there is anything anyone thinks I am missing with the fuel issue let me know. I do not believe it to be injector issues.

Thanks!!

Zuphoria

Usmc the entire fn dash!!! Ooh Rah!!!

zxguy1986

Pics totally required here... Don't let us down

Fortitude57

Semper Fi. I tend to think less is more, so shift boots, door panels, roof, maybe the visors.

I will definitely post pictures. I just bought all my parts last night so a lot of work to come.

Fortitude57

Ok. Did some work to the car over the weekend. Attached some pictures. Still finishing up the other speaker cover. Will post a picture when its installed.

So I am starting to receive all my parts... I want to do the Timing belt myself and although I feel I am very mechanically inclined (USMC Op/Mechanic and personal builds) I am nervous to do the timing belt.

Is this a difficult job to do? Anything I should know before hand? Bought the Bates Kit. Includes: Tensioner, Belt, Water Pump and the gaskets. Anything else I need?

Thanks ladies and gents.

Defender405

Great looking ride, looks real clean and well cared for. Love the camo, though I think it would look better in USAF colors. I'm interested to hear what the experts say about the T-belt too, I probably should do mine but they make me nervous.

PredatorZ

inho, the later model z31's are the sexiest of the series, a more sculptured and smoothed out design, and they look really nice lowered, congrats on the new car and welcome to the forums

Zuphoria

You finish the speaker covers and install them yet?

Fortitude57

Finished a few things this weekend. Installed a new CD player, relocated the rear view mirror, installed rear carpet and installed a Bluetooth speaker.

I put the Bluetooth where the old mirror was suppose to be. The bracket was broken and I needed a place for my Bluetooth. So some scissors and left over carpet made it look factory to me.

86z(Shadow)

beautiful car dude

Fortitude57

Finally got a minute to do some work on my car last weekend. Replace with front brakes with new stock parts. I wanted to do the Timing Belt and the CHTS at the same time but the Timing scares me. Going to replace the CHTS this weekend.

Did a nice shopping list of parts for my car I want so anytime someone wants to lend me say 2 grand; that'd be great hahahaha.

***Side note: I have had old Monte SS's, Firebirds etc... and this car yields the best reactions from people on the side of the street. Cracks me up.

Desert Rat

CHTS requres removal of the timing cover for the best access. Best to be done with the timing belt.

It can be done without, but I understand it's a pain.