1986 nissan 300zx turbo super slow!!
#1
1986 nissan 300zx turbo super slow!!
So this is my first post! Anyways I have a 1986 nissan 300zx turbo (a/t yea I kno..). Anyways I did a 0-60 test today and guess what.. 14 seconds.. 14 second second are you kidding me!! It seems to run very well, I did a full tube up less than 2,000 miles ago (spark plugs, Radiotor flush, engine and tranny oil, oil filter, air filter, injection cleaner and what not) changed the transmission mounts too. But it's does have around 185,xxx miles on it. Got new muffler and catalytic converter. It's not leaking anything I replaced all leaking lines. Sooo why do slow!!!!! 14 seconds makes me sad so if anyone have any tips please help me!
#2
why do you think an 80s technology car will be as fast as a 2015 Honda Accord. Stock new was only like 225 horses. Look at performance figures for new cars and then compare with the 80's. put in a lot of money and equipment you can get more. my buddy had his dyno at 300 horses and he put in a lot of work and money getting there. Remember subaru wrx are easy to get to over 300 horse. up your boost for a start. 10 psi very doable.
#3
Thanks for setting things straight I just got startled that my moms 2001 Corolla could be faster then my 300zx. I was thinking about putting up a boost controller in there but I wasn't sure how much psi it could take.
#6
boost controller install. pull the safety valve on the right side front of plenum and plug the hole with a one inch pipe plug. I've been running mine at 10 psi for couple years now. I do surprise some hondas with seven inch tail pipes once I get into second. first gear you just run out of revs too fast. Here is my general advice:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.
if you don't know when timing belt was changed do it soon. this is an interference engine. put in a fuel pressure gage and a boost gage. check your vacuum. check your timing. surprised your oil cooler lines haven't started oozing fluid usually do at this stage of their life.
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.
if you don't know when timing belt was changed do it soon. this is an interference engine. put in a fuel pressure gage and a boost gage. check your vacuum. check your timing. surprised your oil cooler lines haven't started oozing fluid usually do at this stage of their life.
#7
My '86 turbo is faster than 0-60 in 14 secs. I put a manual boost control and gauge on it - so that may be the reason. I don't remember the exact time it ran but it always feels 'fast enough' for me, especially compared with my own '86na. Maybe you should look into the upgrades available for a turbo Z31. Lots of good write ups here over the years. Let us know what you do.
Check out the record times on the net for Z31s at the 1/4-mile tracks. They can be fairly impressive.
You sound smart enough to be on top of every element of good tuning and running. Not just timing but wires, plugs, fuel grade, ring condition, etc. Not sure how to measure air intake performance but a previous owner may have used higher octane fuel than the car needs and that could have fouled up your intake. I followed the Sea Foam instructions for that in my '86na a few years back and the difference was surprising. It ran like new after the cleaning. But let us know what you do with that Z. Your input is valuable here.
Check out the record times on the net for Z31s at the 1/4-mile tracks. They can be fairly impressive.
You sound smart enough to be on top of every element of good tuning and running. Not just timing but wires, plugs, fuel grade, ring condition, etc. Not sure how to measure air intake performance but a previous owner may have used higher octane fuel than the car needs and that could have fouled up your intake. I followed the Sea Foam instructions for that in my '86na a few years back and the difference was surprising. It ran like new after the cleaning. But let us know what you do with that Z. Your input is valuable here.
Last edited by zxguy1986; 09-24-2014 at 12:59 PM.
#8
Well I did change all struts and shocks, got new tires on them, new tie rods too. Replaced front boots but yesterday I noticed that the rear boots are torn so Im probably going to head to an auto zone tomorrow. As for the voltage thing, I got a new battery and clean the terminals, all the electrics seem to be work fine. But the vaccum lines might be a concern I have this little lines that broke off of what it seem to a some sort of pump. They do suck air and I don't know what to do with them since I took it out, I was just planning on plugging them up. And for timing yes I think I have to do something with that because sometimes when I start it I hear a light I guess tapping noises that seems come from the the front of the engine and when yu rev the repetition "tapping" increases and once it's warmed up its gone but I have to go buy that flash light thing but I'm sure it needs timing adjustment
#9
Forgot to send you to XenonZ31 Reference for a free factory service manual and other cool docs. The FSM is loaded with inspection and troubleshooting pages that are easy to follow. Not to worry. You will get that Z31 pep back. Your Z is a keeper.
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