savan12986

Hello, I've recently purchased an 85 z31 NA, and the rear brakes drag.

Whats got me confused is that the e-brake cables weren't connected, and when I did connect them the dragging has been reduced but not completely removed.

Does the tension from the ebrake cable "balance" out the caliper somehow? Is it an issue of fine tuning tension on the cable or is it bad calipers?

The calipers and pads appear to be new, so I doubt its rust interfering with the piston.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

rogerz

first get the fsm from xenonzcar. Next STep READ it. take off the calipers and make sure everything is free, clean and lubricated. silicon grease. turn the pistons in (pads off). you can get a tool for cheap or try the needle nose plier trick which is frustrating and will cause you to say bad words. Be sure all the cables are free and easy in their sheaths. should only be finger tight to pull them in the sheath or freer is better. Reassemble and work the brakes they self adjust when everything is free moving. Redo the cables for the Ebrake. Probably worked on by a moron who didn't know what he/she was doing. Bleed the system. Last Word RTFM. or spend the money at Les Schwab to make it right. probably a new Master cylinder would be a good idea. and while you are there put in a new master and slave for the clutch hydraulics. when that goes out usually about OH Dark Thirty you don't go anywhere else.
and because i'm in a good mood do this :Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone.