Roll Cage
08-03-2004, 04:47 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 4
Roll Cage
Hey wuts up does any 1 know where to get a roll cage for the Z31 and how about some strut tower bars front and rear. Oh yeah has any ever installed the camber plates. I need this stuff soon because i installed some 18's and the body is badly flexing.
08-04-2004, 10:13 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 47
Originally Posted by JohnnyZ
Hey wuts up does any 1 know where to get a roll cage for the Z31 and how about some strut tower bars front and rear. Oh yeah has any ever installed the camber plates. I need this stuff soon because i installed some 18's and the body is badly flexing.
you can find strut tower braces at ebaymotors.com
daniel
08-05-2004, 01:18 PM
#3
Distinquished Guest
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Old North State
Posts: 413
I bought mine from S&W Racecars for $150 plus S&H. NHRA approved. SCCA approved will cost more.
The kit fits alright, but, to make it work as I wanted it to, every piece had to be cut to fit. The main hoop has the perfect shape to fit with the B-piller and the roof line, but the legs had to be shortened.
You WILL need to remove the entire interior prior to installation to eliminate the threat (promise) of fire damage. Lots of welding is involved and hot slag flies everywhere.
WARNING: Do not install a full cage with a halo unless you plan on using the car as a "track car only" that will be operated only with a helmet worn. All it takes is a slight side impact to cause your head to smack the halo. There have been incidents where a parking lot fender bender has cost a life because the victim cracked their noggin on the halo bar.
Here's a couple of pics of mine.
Notice each leg is attached to a main floor-pan X-member
SCCA requires a diagonal bar in the main hoop. This doesn't have it.
I've padded it since the picture. Looks better un-padded.
I had to cut the shock tower covers to get them back on. It's the only way to do it, and done right, isn't that noticable.
Your best fix for too much negative rear camber is good springs and bushings. Unless something is bent, or, you've lowered the car a lot, there shouldn't be a problem.
Good luck with your Z...
The kit fits alright, but, to make it work as I wanted it to, every piece had to be cut to fit. The main hoop has the perfect shape to fit with the B-piller and the roof line, but the legs had to be shortened.
You WILL need to remove the entire interior prior to installation to eliminate the threat (promise) of fire damage. Lots of welding is involved and hot slag flies everywhere.
WARNING: Do not install a full cage with a halo unless you plan on using the car as a "track car only" that will be operated only with a helmet worn. All it takes is a slight side impact to cause your head to smack the halo. There have been incidents where a parking lot fender bender has cost a life because the victim cracked their noggin on the halo bar.
Here's a couple of pics of mine.
Notice each leg is attached to a main floor-pan X-member
SCCA requires a diagonal bar in the main hoop. This doesn't have it.
I've padded it since the picture. Looks better un-padded.
I had to cut the shock tower covers to get them back on. It's the only way to do it, and done right, isn't that noticable.
Your best fix for too much negative rear camber is good springs and bushings. Unless something is bent, or, you've lowered the car a lot, there shouldn't be a problem.
Good luck with your Z...
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