New owner of a 280ZX
#1
New owner of a 280ZX
Howdy. New to the forum and new to the 280Z world.
I've just recently acquired 1982 280Z that's been sitting in a barn for the last 5-8yrs. I've got it started, albeit it idles very rough, but that's another issue.
Right now, my concern is the clutch is not working. When you press the pedal to the floor, there is no hydraulic back feed at all. I've pulled the master cylinder and the push rod has 100% free play, act's like it's not even connected to anything inside the cylinder housing.
My question is, how is this thing suppose to work?
Also, I did make sure it was full of fluid b/f I pulled the cylinder, it made no difference.
Thanks & pic's to follow!
I've just recently acquired 1982 280Z that's been sitting in a barn for the last 5-8yrs. I've got it started, albeit it idles very rough, but that's another issue.
Right now, my concern is the clutch is not working. When you press the pedal to the floor, there is no hydraulic back feed at all. I've pulled the master cylinder and the push rod has 100% free play, act's like it's not even connected to anything inside the cylinder housing.
My question is, how is this thing suppose to work?
Also, I did make sure it was full of fluid b/f I pulled the cylinder, it made no difference.
Thanks & pic's to follow!
#2
Only hydraulic clutch I've ever worked on was on a motorcycle, but I would think the principles should be the same.. if you pulled the pushrod and weren't suddenly scrambling to clean up fluid, you've got a plug somewhere not allowing the fluid to function the way it should..
#4
if you understand how a brake system works then the clutch is the same. Difference is only one master and one slave. REPLACE THEM BOTH. cost is low and frustration high if you don't. If you don't understand how brakes work you should do some studying of hydraulic systems. Unlike a z31 the s130 system is very straightforward.
#5
Ok, replaced the clutch master and looks like the real problem was with the slave, so as mentioned, I'll be replacing that next.
My next problem looks like at least two of the injectors are not working. I've got spark & compression on two of the cyl but when the motor is running (rough) those two cyl do not seem to be getting any fuel.
When you remove the injector(s) can you get by with just cleaning them or do I need to replace with new?
My next problem looks like at least two of the injectors are not working. I've got spark & compression on two of the cyl but when the motor is running (rough) those two cyl do not seem to be getting any fuel.
When you remove the injector(s) can you get by with just cleaning them or do I need to replace with new?
#6
If it were me. I'd remove the fuel rail and do all 6. When they do come out bet ya money on them cracking an busting the tips off. Doing 1 or two also means expanding your vocabulary. Tried before and well there is a 3/8 gap between the hard-line and injector almost impossible to remove. My suggestion is just to take it all in one shot. New injectors fuel line and filter. Drain the tank by removing bottom hose on filter key to on position and pump into a bucket.
#7
Also drain and change coolent. change hoses cap and thermostat. Barn finds are found in the barn for a reason. Rust, clutch or head gasket. Once running tripple check she's running cool. Once ya over heat your not going to like it. Lol every one of mine popped a head gasket. Once by a stuck 8.00 thermostat.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vale2489
240Z, 260Z, 280Z Motor Swaps (non-V8)
10
04-01-2013 10:07 AM
Bookmarks