ThaPimpShrimp

Hey guys, I've been working a bit on the Z today and drove it over to a buddies house. Now it seems I am stuck here!


The fuel pump has quit working, but it's the wiring. We're getting no power to the pump and having trouble finding a good diagram of the fuel pump wiring. If anyone could tell me where in either the FSM or Haynes manual I can find it I would appreciate it.

If you happen to know places to check (fuses etc) that would be great also! My car is stranded here till I get this fixed!

ThaPimpShrimp

It seems like we have power at the relay however when we just jump the relay nothing happens at the pump. We supplied power to the pump it is fine. No power to the pump wiring... which means its inbetween?

So maybe the wire is bad, however I can't find any schematic of the actual wire or where it goes from the fusible link.

FricFrac

Don't forget depending on the year some cars have a fuel pump control module which supplies the ground side for the fuel pump so you might find you have +12V at the pump but it's not turning on it may be because of the fuel pump control module. You can simply ground that side at the fuel pump to get home...

ThaPimpShrimp

Unfortunately there was no power at all to the pump, or to the connector in the rear (inside the hatch).

Pretty much what we discovered was that we were getting power to the fusible link box, tried switching links and even bridging the connection but there was never any power to the pump. That pretty much means it has to be the wiring coming out of the box going through the car.. right? I guess I'll have to test some more tomorrow but it looks like I'll be pulling out the carpets.

In my haynes manual it said two of the links were for the fuel pump however when we bridges one, it made this little device right next to the inspection light start making noise.. I have no idea what it is, and there are just wires coming out of it. Which link is the right one?

Oh and by the way, to get home I just ran a power wire though the car to the connector in the rear and grounded it.

FricFrac

Fuel pump relay is in the passenger footwell just below the glove box. It might be easiest to get at it by removing the glove box. It's green.

Check the schematics - does the fuseable link that powers the fuel pump power anything else? Is that anything else stuff working? If so then it isn't your fuseable link....

ThaPimpShrimp

Well I am pretty certain it's not the fusible link. I remember it powering one more thing (can't remember off the top of my head) so I'll check it out later. I was just not finding the wiring schematics in either the Haynes or the FSM very good for the fuel pump wiring.

I'll have to go check for that relay. If anyone knows whats section to look in, in either the Haynes or FSM to find the right schematic for all of that I'd appreciate it!

Edit: Also does anyone find it plausible that the new Fuel Pump has a higher power draw so it blew the relay or something? I still don't know what happened but I would assume it would be related to the new Fuel Pump..

NismoPick

In case you missed this...

Sounds like your fuel pump control module is toast. Haynes manual page 252 (bottom left).

ThaPimpShrimp

I can go take a look however like I said, we were getting no power at all to the fuel pump. We even tested the connectors under the carpet in the rear of the car. No power

FricFrac

Yea the fuel pump control module turns the ground on. It doesn't supply voltage to the fuel pump. If you aren't getting +12V when the ignition is on at the pump then it's either the output of the ECU or the relay or the wire/connection in between the ECU to the fuel pump. That's all there is to the circuit.

ThaPimpShrimp

So here is the diagram for the fuel pump wiring. This is all there is to it right? Ignition --> Fuel Pump Relay --> Fuel Pump.



After finding and studying the schematics I think I see why I was confused.. and here's what I've found.

In my haynes manual it showed this exact same diagram as this one, however with a few changes. On the top diagram of the engine bay it stated 5 as Fuel Pump Relay-3 and 6 as Fuel Pump Relay-2. Which if you read this one from the FSM it clearly states 5 as the Fan Motor Relay, and 6 as the Vacuum Pump Relay.

So, when I read the Haynes manual I thought those must be the relays for the fuel pump and I didn't see the lower section which says there is a Fuel Pump Relay under the glove box.



So, 9 on this diagram is the relay I am looking for right? Haha

NismoPick

Yup... THE green fuel pump relay.

ThaPimpShrimp

haha woohoo! Damn I don't know why the Haynes says that. Oh well I'll try to take a look tomorrow. Thanks both of you!

FricFrac

Awesome bro - you rock! I love it when someone actually RTFM! All the answers are held withing. If only people would read it and just ask for clarification everyone would get a lot more done And yes I had the exact same problem with the Fuel Pump relay placement. When you have to fumble through though you never forget

Note - Fuel Pump relay + car alarm.....

ThaPimpShrimp

Very true and thank you. I am just grateful you guys are here to clarify and help out! (My bad though I don't understand the note haha)

So I got the fuel pump relay out! The green one next two the two blue ones. It's not in the greatest shape so I figured I'd just buy a new one for a couple bucks along with my intake/exhaust gasket purchase.

Two quick questions, any particular brand you'd suggest for the gaskets? I've got the Victor Reinz in my shopping cart now. And also, do you guys suggest any sealants or anti-seize? Been looking around and I see mixed opinions.

Good thing this thing isn't my only vehicle yet

NismoPick

All the manifold gaskets are the cheap paper & aluminum shiz that will burn through if the exhaust studs aren't torqued right. There's no better solution at this point... other than taking a new gasket to a machine shop and have them CNC one out of copper. I would love one of those, but would probably cost $200+.

So, speaking of copper, use copper gasket spray to coat the gasket and let it dry before installing. I use a clothes hanger and hang it from a tree to coat. You don't need anti-seize on the manifold hardware because they aren't torqued very high... and the studs stay in the head on install and removal.

FricFrac

I like anti-size but I work in a marine environment so it's almost a must. Make sure you use one that is appicable with the metals you are using especially aluminum. The copper based ones are typically good for high heat applictions as well.

ThaPimpShrimp

Sounds good guys! They're on their way, hopefully I'll have them by the weekend. I'll stop by Napa to see what their selection of gasket spray and possibly anti-seize is like.

Off the top of your head do you know what the torque specs are on the intake and exhaust? If not I'll gladly look them up.

Look forward to hearing what this engine actually sounds like!

ThaPimpShrimp

Got me some gasket spray today! And it has cancer warnings all over it so it must be the good stuff

ThaPimpShrimp

So the new relay made no difference. Looks like either this weekend or sometime next week I'll be breaking out the multimeter and possibly pulling the seats and carpets(oh well they need a good cleaning anyway ).

Also, either stupid me ordered the wrong gasket or I was sent the wrong thing (probably the former.. ) I probably should pay more attention! I'm going to see if napa has a gasket I can get by Saturday because I would really like to get that done at least this weekend.

Learning experiences!

ThaPimpShrimp

I've been attempting to pull apart the intake/exhaust today and I am pretty much ready to start removal of them (I think). Two quick questions though..

First, how the hell do I get the EGR tubing off and how large is that nut? I've been trying to remove it for a while now and it seems impossible.

Second, it looks like the oil lines for the turbo will be in the way. Should I just detach them from the turbo when I pull the exhaust? Also are there any other extras I need to do since my car is a turbo?

Thanks!

ThaPimpShrimp

As of now i've just been hitting it with pb blaster. Its the only piece left to take off. Its hard to get in there though and I am not even sure if I am doing it right. If someone has pointers or theres an easier way let me know..