PredatorZ

Ive had my 81 for about a year now, never drove it, except to limp the brake-less thing home. I want to get it back on the road and start using it as my daily driver and maybe go the rat rod route, since I really like the look and this is a solid rust free body, just a few ruff panels to work out. When I got it the front carpet was soaked to the floor boards in brake fluid, so I am assuming the master cylinder is shot, 35 bucks at Autozone, I'm hoping the booster is OK, that's it bit more at $135, I pulled and trashed the carpet, so the interior will be bare bones for a while, but that's easily fixed with help from motor sports and a 10 piece carpet kit, I'm going to try and reupholster the door panels and other trim pieces.
Since I wrecked my 84 300zx , I have been driving a 92 dodge d50 (Mitsubishi), the fuel injection is taking a crap on me, and I'd much rather sink my hard earned cash into a z, which I really miss driving. Sometime this spring I will be about ready to drop the motor from my 84 into an 86 turbo shell I got for just $400, pretty decent shape, proud owner of a new engine stand and hoist, so I have everything I need to do the work.
Plus the little truck was in need of tires, and I have 2 sets that fit my z, so no need to spend money on tires. I still need to get the title transferred, and pay the taxes on it , guy wanted $1200, I talked him down to $700, so I still need to pay that sales tax, 6% on 700, and registration, I can transfers my plates cheap, I have 1 1/2 years on my registration so I don't want to loose that.
Thought I'd check back in and see how everyone has been doing.
I need a drivers headlight bucket too, PM'd Jamal, I'm sure he has what I need.

PredatorZ

a few I took last year

PredatorZ

After sitting since last march, the battery, which looks pretty new, held a good charge and on about the 5th try it fired up. I dumped a few gallons of fresh gas in the tank before trying.
Seems the PO or the PPO removed a heater/ coolant hose, I have picks. From what I have been gathering, perhaps there was a connector there, like a 3 way splitter or some valve ? Unfortunately. short of the Cooling Circuit Chart in the FSM, I have found scant info on exactly what parts are needed to get it back working. Any picks you guys might have of how yours is setup, or comments on my pics would be greatly appreciated as always.

PredatorZ

Datsun 280ZX 3 Way Heater Hose Connector 1979 1983 New | eBay

I definitely currently don't have one

PredatorZ

I got my master cylinder changed today, fairly easy process, I used a one man bleeding tool, a little bottle with a check valve, flushed out all the old fluid. Looking at the front suspension bushings, all the rubber is is rotted, so that will be my next project.

PredatorZ

Received my Bushing kit today, from energy, I ordered a Front Inner Tie Rod End, saved on free shipping and got the part for about 1/2 off because of that. I ordered both sizes of Front Sway Bar Bushings Kit, since my car was covered in snow, and not crawling under there that day was worth the extra 6.95 to NOT, I felt a bit guilty, but quickly got over it.


1979 - 1983 Nissan 280ZX
Includes:

Front Control Arm Bushings - 7.3103
Rear Control Arm Bushings - 7.3105
Front Strut Arm Bushings - 7.7102
Front Sway Bar Bushings Kit - Varies
Front Sway Bar Endlinks - 9.8122
Rear Sway Bar Bushings 20mm - 7.5110
Rear Sway Bar Endlinks - 9.8122
Outer Tie Rod End Boots - 9.13103

So now I have some fun to do over the weekend. I still need the Diff mount bushing, and a few other suspension parts to get.
One important thing to note is, most of the individual packages has its own small tube of lube, so there is really no need to buy any extra, the website page fails to mention the lube is included, but in the customer comments page for the lube one guy mentioned it is included in the kit, so no need to order any. These bushings feel very hard, so this should really stiffen things up. I am going to mod the suspension as much as possible, next step is lowering springs, I had considered coil-overs, but they are really spendy, but until I do get the springs it might be an option, may depend on how much over time I get, my OT is pure parts money, so I am working every extra minute my boss will allow.

zxguy1986

Bowled over by the amount of work you are putting in. And $$$. You qualify as a true Z-guy. I would really like to see more pix as you work along - but you are already busy enough. Thanks for keeping us up to date! Don't stop.

PredatorZ

Thanks ZXGuy
Cool, ya, Ill post some pics from tomorrow and this weekend, I have 3 days off, I got a new 3 ton floor jack, will get my car way up in a hurry, I have been out in the garage most the night working on my headlight bucket, it had a small crack that I glassed back in.There was a lot of old paint, so I have been stripping it off over the last few days and its almost ready to primer. I accidentally dripped aircraft paint remover on the new washer, that stuff takes paint off pretty fast, even baked on enamel ! I also picked up a set of body dollies and hammers, I have a few dents to massage out.
This forum has been a great resource for me, guys like Fricfrac, and Nismo, and many others are true Guru's to me, I am always amazed at they're depth of knowledge, and creativity. There are a lot of talented fabricators on ZDriver , one skill I am always looking to improve on, and one that comes in handy with these cars.

Cheers

PredatorZ

Not going to do any suspension work today, because I have to take the control arms apart, I might as well change the springs and struts/shocks at the same time. Found what looks like a really good deal on a set, anyone ever use this Kit ?
Tokico Spring/Shock Kit - HPK - Lightning Motorsports - Made with bits of real lightning, so you know it's good !

Seems to be a pretty good price too. $523

So now I want to get all the parts needed, before I have it all apart, do one end at a time I suppose. I wanted to repack, maybe replace the wheel bearing too, when I have each end apart. Been trying to go through the manual, and figure out what all I will need. making a list checking it twice.

But I will bet out, put my headlight bucket back on, and my sub-bumper, I will need that for my new front end piece, it its a bit bent, so I will be pounding on it a bit.

Since my front bumper is tweaked, I am going to replace it with this Motorsport! 30th Anniversary Air Dam, 79-83 280ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

Which should look pretty sharp

WanganDevilZ

That is a pretty good price, buying all of that from MSA is $599. Plus Tokicos are good if you can't afford to do an S13 coilover conversion.

PredatorZ

Got the headlight bucket repaired and installed, did some sanding on the drivers rear quarter panel, there was 1/4 inch of bondo in places. Tried to use my fender hammers on it and discovered the bondo when it started cracking, not bending. I took apart the front bumper, the metal under bumper is pretty tweaked, I will need a good strait one for the new front end I'm installing, the place where the turn signal is bent pretty good.

PredatorZ

See that's where I am, I would really love coil overs, a fully adjustable suspension would be ideal, but the list is short and expensive, and as far as I know, most require some welding. I want to get most of the under side done before summer. I need to do more research on coil overs, new stuff seems to come out all the time. It all comes down to money and time.

PredatorZ

So my car has AC now, it actually always did, I just haven't paid any attention to the engine yet, although I was looking right at the lines going into the fire wall and just not registering. Now I have to figure out if I need the temp sensor valve and there is a plug in the back of the block where the heater return is supposed to go, so I will need that fitting too. Took it for a short drive, the Diff mount bushing is really worn out, you can feel it moving around, and hear it too. The trans felt a bit clunky, like it was dry inside, and the throw-out bearing is noisy also. After looking at all the repairs that have been done on the drivers rear quarter, I just might cut it out and weld a new on in, if I can find the panel or a donor car.

PredatorZ

I'm almost completely certain, I need this part Datsun 280ZX Water Pressure Regulator Valve, 1979-83 Nissan 280ZX

From the description, this is the piece I am missing " 280ZX Water Pressure Regulator Valve. New Nissan 280ZX Water Presssure Regulator Valve for the 1979-83 Datsun/Nissan 280ZX. Installs in line with the heater outlet hose on the side of the engine. New 280ZX Water Pressure Regulator Valve."

PredatorZ

Found this diagram, my system is already manual control, I just need to get the 2 pieces shown, and replace the core and Ill have heat.

WanganDevilZ

How to install S13 Coilovers on 280zx (and poly bushings) - S130 Series - 280ZX - HybridZ

PredatorZ

Thanks WanganDevilZ, I have an entire rear suspension off my 84, Im going to cut the car up, leave the rear section floor and rearend all in one chunk, for some frankenstein experimental transplant.... HUM, this might work. This would make the car even more rat rod, I need to work on my welding skills.

Seriously though, I did read that, and a bunch of the linked builds, I need to use all the cool good idea's, since I am going for a Rat rod canyon carver / weekend racer. We have some of the nicest twisty roads , near hear is a switch back heaven called Lowman, before I crashed my 84 I used to run through there, it was a blast, trying to find my tires traction limits... woot fun !!

This feeling and memory motivates me to get more work done on her.... back to the garage.

PredatorZ

Removed my heater system this weekend, basically 3 large chunks, the one thing my manual missed that you need to remove the instrument cluster above the heater control to get to a single screw that goes to a small panel that butts up to the top of the heater box, one screw on the end of the 3 gauges lets it slip loose so you can access to the screw. Tried to take as many pics of the complicated parts, like the control, which has all the vacuum lines connected to it, I only took 2 lines off the unit and disconnected all others at the other end of the lines, looks fairly easy getting everything back in order, there are several good diagrams. Replaced the vacuum line that goes from the heater to the vacuum tank, also replaced all the vacuum lines under the hood, and some of the other rubber hoses, mostly the ones the same size as the breather on the valve cover. Got some foam weather stripping to go between the 3 sections, the original foam was badly deteriorating, crumbling away. all the flappers in the heater box have a thin foam pad on them, most could be refurbished, but how ? There might be a kit or just some thin foam sheets and spray adhesive maybe. Once you get the AC unit in and recharged there's no going back, go getting it right now it important. Hopefully it will all go back in today.

PredatorZ

I got my heater all back in and working, took a few pics, but didn't include the blower, it was the 2nd easiest part. I managed to get all the vacuum lines in the correct places, It is pretty strait forward and once I made a color coded diagram, it helped a lot. One trick is getting everything connected on your bench and with a few easy steps you can put it all back in without disconnecting anything, that way I was able to dress the lines out properly, and get it looking half way organized.

PredatorZ

Cont from above

Ill describe the pictures, they are labeled by step

Step 1. Get it assembled on your work bench.
Step 2. Set it on the passenger side floor, with the controls seperate from the heater box.
Step 3. Set the controls up on the trans tunnel, lift and tilt the heater box about 1/2 way up.
Step 4. I used the glove box door to prop up the heater box while I placed the controls into its normal location.
Steps 5 & 6 are just getting everything in position.
Step 7 thru 10 show how to angle the control to insert the cable into the valve control, the secure with the clip.
Step 11. Everything bolted down in place. ready for A/C Box.
Step 12. I used 1/2 inch foam tape to seal between each box.
Step 13. A/C Box in.

zxguy1986

Go, PredatorZ. Top to bottom, doin' it right.

PredatorZ

The vacuum lines are color coded, so it is helpful to have a legend to go by.
Color Code
B = Black
G = Green
K = Pink
LG = Light Green
N = Brown
O = Orange
P = Purple
R = Red
S = Slate
U = Blue
W = White
Y = Yellow

The letter indicates the color (colour) of the wire - when there are two letters (except for the LG) the second letter is the stripe color. I.e. WR = a white wire with a red stripe.

I colored in my diagram to help me sort things out. In my pics above, you can see the S or Source line (red, has a large piece of masking tape) goes from the vacuum tank to the vacuum selector switch on the control panel. On the diagram. the vacuum bellows that actuate the vent doors have a top and a side vacuum connector location, the diagram clearly shows the difference, so with a little studying it was fairly easy to figure it out and get everything working properly.

I tested it earlier, after adding the outside hoses, and getting everything filled up, it had a big burp, and then the heater got hot, all the controls functioned properly, I was pretty happy when it was cranking out super hot air.

PredatorZ

One added note I disabled the AC by cutting the belt, it was pretty stiff and sliced like butter. My next step is removing the compressor, changing the oil, replacing the dryer and refilling with the new type freon.. R134a I believe and it should all be working for summer time. I just need to figure how to get it out, and order the parts... O-rings too I guess.

PredatorZ

ran into a hitch with my heater, the control valve has a leak, I'm pretty sure I can braze it and pressure test it, its an expensive and hard to find part, at least it would seem so when they are asking $170 for one. Will need to pull it all the way out, if I can't repair it, I will fab something up, get it to work., it may end up a rat rod, so improvisation is allowed.

zxguy1986

That price probably reflects the fact that somebody went through the labor to get one out of a car and then set the thing aside. By now you have figured out if any Z31 components will work in your model. Z31 parts are a lot easier to locate and probably a lot cheaper. Let us know if a substitute will fit what you need.