FrappNasty

Hi All,

Recently brought home a 77 280z ( non running), came with 2 front fenders, light buckets and a wiper cowl, extra ECU. The frame rails were in acceptable condition, passenger floor pan gone, driver's pan in decent condition. The interior is rough...cracked dash, door panel etc. So, I start to remove the interior to start pan cutouts and replace and any other things I know I would come across, and then I removed the center council the trans tunnel and this is what I saw (see attachments). Now granted, I really didn't pay much for this car, and could part it out for a profit, but I always wanted a classic Z car and have the skill with the mechanical/electrical side of things, but this is scaring the ***** out of me! I do have a neighbor with a frame straightener up the block, should I fix her up, or cut my losses?

FrappNasty

Pictures..

zxguy1986

Heh, looks like a bend in the console. I can't think of what would do that except a serious t-bone whack to the driver's side door jamb/frame. You should see evidence of repairs there, especially around/under the door. Otherwise your worry should be whether the wheels are even close to aligning now - and if they can be aligned under these conditions. If you can check them and the wheels are OK, then the question is whether the structural frame was wracked out of plane. Your call. You may as well find out first before you start dumping time and bucks into the restoration. When it is restored and rolling again, you will expect the Z to give you the road-hug ride Z drivers expect. You need OEM alignment all over for that to happen (plus good tires and suspension..)

FrappNasty

Thanks for the response, from underneath the Trans mount is is crooked due to the twist in the tunnel, so the whole drive line is off. Thanks for the heads up where to look for further scary bits.

zxguy1986

Hot Z!

The wheel alignment should be the big test for frame wrack. If the wheels are within spec, hard to think the frame is out. But there are only 3 dimensions for the frame, the 2 for being still horizontal (in-plane, L + W) and the 3rd for being out of square (frame corners are no longer 90-degs/not a rectangle = a parallelogram). I think it's worth checking out if you have the tools.

FrappNasty

Should find out in the next few weeks on the alignment numbers...I'll post the findings.

theramz

You could tow it and have someone drive behind to see if it is tracking straight. If it rolls straight then go ahead and fix the sheet metal. Huge project.

zxguy1986

Great idea, ramz!

theramz

Another thing would be to get it on level pad and measure the height of the wheel arches and door sills compared left to right. And the level of the rear at the hatch opening side to side. Instead of on the tires maybe better to put it on axle stands.

theramz

Have to wonder how that type of damage was caused without an obviuos side impact. Maybe someone jacked it up with a floor jack. Get underneath and inspect it. Take a good look at the trans crossmember. Could have even backed up on a curb.

FrappNasty

Thanks for the input. The Trans mount is bent with the transmission being bias to the left of the car, with the drive shaft bad angle. I need to get more time under the car, and haul it up the street to a guy who has a frame straightener and get a better look at it. I will check ride heights and measure diag to the ball joints to the rear suspension and other angles...

FrappNasty

Just a quick update, going to pull the transmission and exhaust this Saturday. Haven't talked to the frame dude yet, been so busy at the shop and working on the boat as well. Got some interesting advice from a very experienced body guy whole does a lot of fab work, he suggested making a "saddle" in a rough shape to fit under the car in the trans tunnel, and lower the car slowly onto it while pounding out the metal into shape. I'm under no illusion that I'm going to get a factory finished look, but hoping to get my driveline angles right and true.Thanks again to all for your suggestions. On a brighter note, I'm finding way less rust than I thought I would find.

1977ZDriver

It may be just me, but I'd walk away from this one.
Structural damage is more than scary, it can be downright dangerous.
For instance: You can stand on a beer can - unless it has a dent in the side, then the whole thing collapses, and crumbles under your foot. What happens if this car gets in an accident? Would you put your wife and kids in it?
I'm not trying to be graphic, but these are things to think about.

There are so many 280Z's out there that are in much better restorable condition. And most of them can be had for not a lot of money.

FrappNasty

I hear what your saying, Where I live classic Z cars are very hard to find (2 for sale In the Province of 5 million). And when you do, they are priced very high. I paid 1000.00 Canadian for the car. ...that's about $5.98 in American dollars.lol. That being said there are some really promising things about the car. It came with 2 clean extra fenders, a windshield cowl,two nice light buckets, and a extra ECU. In my trade I have loads of access to body and frame guys who are helping me a lot,(I pull wrenches at a local dealership). I'm bringing home some frame-measuring tools the body shop is loaning me this weekend. Ill try to upload some pix this week, should more of the bones of the car, and a motor mount fix, which lined up the Tranny at the firewall.


The last two pix are of the mount repaired, and before

1977ZDriver

Well, it looks like you're making progress.
Those motor mounts are definitely out of whack.
But if you feel like you can get it back to spec - great.
I didn't realize you were in Canada. - Been to Quebec City and Vancouver. Loved 'em both!!!

FrappNasty

The motor mount was a easy enough to get lined up other than sore hands from cold metal shaping, and spilling my beers in the process. Borrowed a frame measuring tool from the shop next door did numerous measurement angles, from suspension to body points, suspension to suspension, etc. The car is lining up. It has been rebuilt at one point...why they would not straighten the tunnel is beyond me, but it appears the car at this point is straight. Which make me a very happy camper! So now on to why no power at the fuel pump, going to look into the relay and the wiring leading into it...previous monkeys have wiring overlays all over the car. I'm about 4 hours from Vancouver and never been to Quebec, hear it a great place, except for the people who live there...lol

1977ZDriver

Looking at your original pics, the doors and body panels all lined up fairly nicely. So I was surprised when I saw the tranny tunnel. I sort of figured that someone must have done some pretty extensive body work and frame rail realignment.
Maybe the tunnel being off like it is, is just cosmetic at this point.

Take lots of pic of the process!

FrappNasty

Hi all, just a update. I got the old girl fired up for the first time in nearly 20 years. It took a lot of wiring repairs, new pump and blowing out the fuel lines. I have the exhaust removed, so it's a rumbling! The engine sounds strong, so a bit of progress. Now onto the sheet metal. Thanks all, this forum has been a big help! Can't seem to post the video, will try later.

beg3yrs

Thanks for coming back. We all love to see progress and congratulations are in order. Well done so far, keep it up!

FrappNasty

The start and stall issue is coming down to two things. Bad grounds which there are a lot, or possible ignition. Did a wiring overlay for a toggle for the fuel pump so the car starts and runs steady. Oil pressure climbs quickly, voltage is good. No tach, but not concerned at this time. Removed the fuel rail and replaced all hoses, and the injectors are heading out to get tuned by a Bosch factory trained tech. The injectors were pretty bad, surprised she ran as well as she did.I have be running off fresh fuel from a external cell, the tank is being sent out to be cleaned and re-lined. It is a testament to the quality of these old Z cars that many of the components still function.

On a different note...I have video and pix I can't upload on this site due to file size,. They are well below the limits set by the w.m. any suggestions?

beg3yrs

Congrats on all the progress!

Put the video on YouTube and provide a link in your post!

FrappNasty

Hi again,

The brake master cylinder was filled with remnants if seal material, no fluid. so after soaking with brake clean, using a fluid extractor to suck out the crap, I got the bowls clean. Then using the same vacuum extractor opened up the bleeders on the master cylinder and cleaned those out. Moved on the the r/r wheel cylinder (after fighting to get the drums off, it has been 20 years) no brake fluid flowing with either vacuum or gravity flush. Drilled out and cleaned all bleeder valves, and using hi vacuum, while slightly actuating the brake peddle things started flowing. result is I now have a firm peddle...freaking amazing! The diff and trans have been drained and filled. Now on to the gas tank with POR 15 kit so I can drive it the frame guy up the road who is going to get going on the trans tunnel and frame check. He looked at the car and was surprised by the lack of rust and how straight it was...so some good news. After the frame guy, have made arrangements for the N42 head to get ported and flow tested to run with a new cam and flat top pistons (Porting is to help with pinging issues other owners have run into with this combo). The block will be off to be bored at the same time, with new bearings and crank check. I changed the water pump also. It been soooo hot here in the Okanagan lately, so progress has been slow, and the cold beers going down quick! I will when I get time open a Youtube channel and start posting progress pix and vids.

beg3yrs

Ah yes, cold beers going down the throat made dry by turning wrenches, screwdrivers and so on.

Keep it up. Sound like rewarding work. Looking forward to your next posts!

FrappNasty

Well boys, after my update yesterday things have changed for the good. Got a call from the brother inlaw to check out a local online ad for a 1978 280z. Called the guy immediately and arranged to see him right away. The car is a Cali car he imported 8-9 years ago, and it's all original except for the paint and the seats have been recovered. Still has the egr, running a/c and runs great with 70000 miles clocked. 5 speed with newer rims and tires. No rust that can be seen. Im thinking about swapping the N47 head for the N42 on the other car, but other than that just some fluid changes are all that are needed. I was the first to call and look at the car, as the ad had been only up for 12 hours and got it for a great price.

beg3yrs

Glad you're happy. From what I can see from the tiny photos, the car looks nice.

Congratulations!