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Stub Axle "Tight"

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Old 01-07-2015, 10:25 AM
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Stub Axle "Tight"

I just restored the entire rear suspension and drivetrain of the car. I cleaned and greased the stock bearings; they seemed perfectly good. I reassembled the rear hubs and tightened the stub axles with new self locking nuts... around 200 ft/lbs.

The question: The axles rotate smoothly, they just seem tight. I come from solid axle cars, and those puppies spin like a top. How tight should the axle be in terms of rotating it by hand? Just seems tight to me.

Pics attached for fun.
Attached Thumbnails Stub Axle "Tight"-20141228_104954.jpg   Stub Axle "Tight"-20141228_155010.jpg   Stub Axle "Tight"-20141231_095548.jpg   Stub Axle "Tight"-20141231_143722.jpg   Stub Axle "Tight"-20150104_115104.jpg  

Stub Axle "Tight"-20150104_153400.jpg  
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:11 PM
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How tight

Originally Posted by PCressey
I just restored the entire rear suspension and drivetrain of the car. I cleaned and greased the stock bearings; they seemed perfectly good. I reassembled the rear hubs and tightened the stub axles with new self locking nuts... around 200 ft/lbs.

The question: The axles rotate smoothly, they just seem tight. I come from solid axle cars, and those puppies spin like a top. How tight should the axle be in terms of rotating it by hand? Just seems tight to me.

Pics attached for fun.
Get a datsun/nissan Z car manual and make it tight according to specs. Question: what exactly did you grease ? Every rear differential are self lubricating.
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:25 PM
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I have the service manual and the How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by Wick Humble. It states to torque the nut between 180-230 ft/lbs... my torque goes to 150 ft/lbs, so I capped it at 150 ft/lbs, then used my long wrench with a pipe and gave it a little extra (in one of my photos above).

I rotated the stub axles after torquing them to 150 ft/lbs to use as a reference. After torquing with the pipe the extra bit, probably to around 200 ft/lbs, they rotated the same as when at 150 ft/lbs... it just seems tight compared to what I am used to... physically rotating the axles.

I greased the bearings and seals, nothing else. The differential was sent out to a professional.
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:38 PM
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My car is currently in pretty much the same state of assembly as yours. So, I just went outside and gave the hubs a spin. While they turn freely, they only rotate a couple times after a good twist. I personally wouldn't say they're tight, but they don't spin like a top either. It's possible they spin more after the lubricant has warmed up from driving.
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by beg3yrs
My car is currently in pretty much the same state of assembly as yours. So, I just went outside and gave the hubs a spin. While they turn freely, they only rotate a couple times after a good twist. I personally wouldn't say they're tight, but they don't spin like a top either. It's possible they spin more after the lubricant has warmed up from driving.
Thanks for the check... mine definitely won't rotate a few times with a good twist... hmmm... Guess I will take it around the block once or twice and see how it feels after and go from there.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by PCressey
Thanks for the check... mine definitely won't rotate a few times with a good twist... hmmm... Guess I will take it around the block once or twice and see how it feels after and go from there.
You're making me jealous. For my project, going around the block is not likely until this Summer.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by beg3yrs
You're making me jealous. For my project, going around the block is not likely until this Summer.
Oh bummer... I thought weather might be your reason, but I see you are in Tucson... you can follow my restoration if you like to get your fix: https://plus.google.com/photos/+Paul...91694125428353

I bought the car September 27, 2014 and have been going at it every weekend pretty much.
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Old 01-09-2015, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by PCressey
Oh bummer... I thought weather might be your reason, but I see you are in Tucson... you can follow my restoration if you like to get your fix: https://plus.google.com/photos/+Paul...91694125428353

I bought the car September 27, 2014 and have been going at it every weekend pretty much.
Well thanks for that, I will definitely check it out. I too have a restoration going on. Here's my link: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...project-37922/

I have a long way to go but am finally putting some parts back on the car. I need the room in the work area!

UPDATE: Took a look at your photos - they sure look a lot like mine, if I missed a shot and need the reference, I'm heading to your site. Our cars were even the same color (at one time). Great work!

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Old 01-09-2015, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by beg3yrs
Well thanks for that, I will definitely check it out. I too have a restoration going on. Here's my link: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...project-37922/

I have a long way to go but am finally putting some parts back on the car. I need the room in the work area!

UPDATE: Took a look at your photos - they sure look a lot like mine, if I missed a shot and need the reference, I'm heading to your site. Our cars were even the same color (at one time). Great work!
You have a nice long thread going... I am going to sub and start following it and read through when I get home from work. Looks like a nice full restoration! My dad wants my car out of his garage...
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:06 PM
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Nice work on all that. If you removed the bearings hopefully you installed the spacer in between them. After you torque them you need to smack the axle back and forth to make sure the bearing is seated and re torque them. When full of grease they wont spin freely. If they do they are to loose. A flick should rotate them about a turn but not feel sticky.
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Old 01-14-2015, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by theramz
Nice work on all that. If you removed the bearings hopefully you installed the spacer in between them. After you torque them you need to smack the axle back and forth to make sure the bearing is seated and re torque them. When full of grease they wont spin freely. If they do they are to loose. A flick should rotate them about a turn but not feel sticky.
I took apart one of the rear hubs this past weekend because it was bothering me. What I found was that the new rear seals are causing the friction on the backing plate that is then held on by the lock nut.

When I removed the lock nut and backing plate, the stub axle rotated as it should (with both bearings still seated). Putting the backing plate back on (without the lock nut), the tightness occurred again.

Is it normal for the seals to be squeezing around the backing plate setting, and they will just wear in after a few miles?
Attached Thumbnails Stub Axle "Tight"-backingplate.jpg  
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:24 AM
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Here is a drawing of the parts you have. As you can see the seal does not contact the hub flange dust shield. Also not that the larger chamfer on the outer bearing faces out.
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RA Rear axle and Suspension.pdf (1.75 MB, 525 views)
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by theramz
Here is a drawing of the parts you have. As you can see the seal does not contact the hub flange dust shield. Also not that the larger chamfer on the outer bearing faces out.
Thanks for the diagrams. I will double check this tomorrow... the car is at my parents.

I actually didn't remove the outer bearing from the stub axle. Also, doesn't the hub flange go through the center of the seal when it is slips onto the stub axle splines? This will be easier of I can take photo tomorrow.
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