Ignition Problem: Car tries to crank in "ACC" and "On" mode, but shuts off at "Start"
03-04-2014, 12:10 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Carlsbad
Posts: 6
Ignition Problem: Car tries to crank in "ACC" and "On" mode, but shuts off at "Start"
The Story:
I took out the dash to repair the massive cracks, and to try my luck with the wiring harness.
I mostly just re-wrapped the harness, verified and marked all the splices of which there were many, and trimmed down some sketchy exposed wires.
Prior to removing the dash, the ONLY electrical that functioned was ignition and brake lights. No tach, no fuel, no temp, no amps, no nothing. Front lights and signals are cut for some ungodly reason, and A/C was removed by me personally.
Just to note, she always started up like a champ.
The Problem:
Now that the dash is back in and everything is hooked up, things are... wonky.
As soon as I hook up the negative bat terminal, I can hear a click, like the one that comes on when acc is activated.
When I then move the key to the off position, I can visibly see the amp gauge flicker.
Then, when I turn the key to Acc, the car starts cranking but doesn't start.
Then, if I turn to "On", it continues to crank.
Finally, if I turn to "Start" she shuts off.
Current State:
Initially, I thought I had just put in the connection that goes behind the key hole backwards as it's the only one without a clear way of going in.
When I tried to flip it, the connector didn't really fit in all the way flush, but I figured I'd give it a shot.
In this configuration, the key switches seemed like normal in that nothing really happened until I switched to "Start" which then tried to crank but immediately blows the "common" fuse.
Clearly, something is not connected right, but I've no idea what it could be as I feel I've played with the only possible configurations.
Help me Z Driver, you're my only hope!
I took out the dash to repair the massive cracks, and to try my luck with the wiring harness.
I mostly just re-wrapped the harness, verified and marked all the splices of which there were many, and trimmed down some sketchy exposed wires.
Prior to removing the dash, the ONLY electrical that functioned was ignition and brake lights. No tach, no fuel, no temp, no amps, no nothing. Front lights and signals are cut for some ungodly reason, and A/C was removed by me personally.
Just to note, she always started up like a champ.
The Problem:
Now that the dash is back in and everything is hooked up, things are... wonky.
As soon as I hook up the negative bat terminal, I can hear a click, like the one that comes on when acc is activated.
When I then move the key to the off position, I can visibly see the amp gauge flicker.
Then, when I turn the key to Acc, the car starts cranking but doesn't start.
Then, if I turn to "On", it continues to crank.
Finally, if I turn to "Start" she shuts off.
Current State:
Initially, I thought I had just put in the connection that goes behind the key hole backwards as it's the only one without a clear way of going in.
When I tried to flip it, the connector didn't really fit in all the way flush, but I figured I'd give it a shot.
In this configuration, the key switches seemed like normal in that nothing really happened until I switched to "Start" which then tried to crank but immediately blows the "common" fuse.
Clearly, something is not connected right, but I've no idea what it could be as I feel I've played with the only possible configurations.
Help me Z Driver, you're my only hope!
03-04-2014, 02:51 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 20
Can't give anything specific, personal experience wise, but I used to use this site when I worked in the aftermarket auto business: https://www.directechs.com/DirectWire/
Make an account, it's free, and then look up the car wiring. I only see a listing for a '74 260Z, but they should all have the same wiring harnesses, colour wise. As always, use a test light and determine what is what for yourself and use the wiring table as a guide. It`s much easier than you think it should be.
The fuse blowing though seems like to me there is either a crossed wire, short, or something is wired incorrectly.
Make an account, it's free, and then look up the car wiring. I only see a listing for a '74 260Z, but they should all have the same wiring harnesses, colour wise. As always, use a test light and determine what is what for yourself and use the wiring table as a guide. It`s much easier than you think it should be.
The fuse blowing though seems like to me there is either a crossed wire, short, or something is wired incorrectly.
03-04-2014, 04:47 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 302
First, download the FSM for your car. The link is in my signature. In the BE section, you'll find a wiring diagram.
Second, for the plug that goes into the ignition switch, make sure you have the black/white wire on the bottom.
Third, don't test with the battery. You will probably fry things that way. If the car would start/run without the ammeter, that means someone was REALLY monkeying around with the wiring.
Join the local Z car club (guessing that you are near San Diego and not in New Mexico), find out who is good with electrical, find out his favorite beer, and stock up. It sounds like you're in over your head right now.
Second, for the plug that goes into the ignition switch, make sure you have the black/white wire on the bottom.
Third, don't test with the battery. You will probably fry things that way. If the car would start/run without the ammeter, that means someone was REALLY monkeying around with the wiring.
Join the local Z car club (guessing that you are near San Diego and not in New Mexico), find out who is good with electrical, find out his favorite beer, and stock up. It sounds like you're in over your head right now.
03-07-2014, 10:34 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Carlsbad
Posts: 6
So, I couldn't seem to make an account on the directtechs site as it is saying "Your email address must have been added to our system via DirectedDealers.com before you can complete this registration" and for that I need to have a business.
The FSM was a good suggestion as there are actually diagrams in there as opposed to just schematics like in the Haynes and Chilton.
However, my harness does not appears to be stock, or at least it has different plugs than what are show in the FSM.
Regardless, I did manage to fix the issue.
Basically, I just had things hooked up incorrectly.
Thankfully, I took many many pictures of the setup and was able to devise where I had went wrong.
Case closed.
Thank you all for your good suggestions.
My local club is indeed ZCSD and I hope I can indeed make the next gathering!
The FSM was a good suggestion as there are actually diagrams in there as opposed to just schematics like in the Haynes and Chilton.
However, my harness does not appears to be stock, or at least it has different plugs than what are show in the FSM.
Regardless, I did manage to fix the issue.
Basically, I just had things hooked up incorrectly.
Thankfully, I took many many pictures of the setup and was able to devise where I had went wrong.
Case closed.
Thank you all for your good suggestions.
My local club is indeed ZCSD and I hope I can indeed make the next gathering!
03-08-2014, 03:25 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 12
My 83 280zxt did the same thing. It turned out to be the ignition switch on the back on the ignition where you put the key in. It has two little Phillips screws that hold it in. In my case I also had to rewire the cable from the ignition to the starter because it was going through a previous owners remote starter.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rickyyea
240Z, 260Z, 280Z Performance / Technical
14
03-05-2012 06:19 PM
Lev
300ZX (Z31) Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
1
09-19-2009 12:35 PM
PowerhungryBill
Upstate Z Club
0
09-16-2008 09:04 AM
Bookmarks
