240Z, 260Z, 280Z Motor Swaps (non-V8) L28ET RB SR KA VG VQ 2JZ etc....

Snw's OFFICIAL 280Z turbo build thread - SMPYWD!

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Old 01-04-2012, 05:26 PM
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If you have a bad connection to the oil pressure switch the ECU will shut the FP off.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:44 AM
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I am getting great oil pressure readings. New fpr and absolutely no change. Now I remember first time I drove the car prior to this engine rebuild I did one quick pull and it boosted hard. Then ran like it does now,.shitty. so I thought maybe I blew the rings but now I see its fuel pressure on thus new motor. So I'm wondering if there was enough suction in the tank and I ruptured the sump line n now I'm sucking air in the tank as well as fuel. No reason it would work fine once then after one pull the fuel pressure is crap.
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:48 AM
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Oh and I also have a super odd issue, everything was fine body harness wise prior to this motor rebuild. Nothing was touched other than the basic electrical connections necessary to pull a motor and place one back in, but now after the rebuild when I hit the brakes the brake lights come on but so des the back lighting on the dash instruments. Lol. Wtf. I touched nothing that would cause that....
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Old 01-05-2012, 05:01 AM
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Also if its a turbo swap into an s30 how would the ecu be getting a rearing to do that. And should the pump not work or at least at idle hold normal pressure...
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:15 AM
  #180  
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This is why I suggested building a little tank with its own pump. This way you can verify 100% it is a fuel issue and that everything else is okay. Just a process of elimination.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:03 AM
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Yes yes I will....
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:43 AM
  #182  
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I totally forgot I had this. You can see how I did what I was suggesting at the very begginning of the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSIWZP5C1pY
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Old 01-05-2012, 04:37 PM
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Haha i knew what you meant. I don't have enough fuel hose lying around and was to busy making the s2000 protected from salt. I did have enough hose though to remove the connection of the fuel pump from the tank and stick some line on it and sink that into a fuel canister. Same issue. N the gas siphoned out of the tank well so I at least know the tank is healthy. While under there I could hear the fuel pump still pulsating. Which is why I initially suspected it to be scavaging air in the tank. When then disconnected that line to stick back on the tank I got some real dirty backflow. So I'm now suspecting simply dirty filters. However ill still be trying your idea Jeff as well.
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
Also if its a turbo swap into an s30 how would the ecu be getting a rearing to do that. And should the pump not work or at least at idle hold normal pressure...
Not if it is a loose connection. Your guages are dampened so you might not see a drop in pressure. On the early cars (pre '78) the afm must be open after start or the fp relay cuts off. "78+ it was wired through the OP sensor. If the pump is hot wired it won't matter.
After your last post it seems you may have a clog between the tank and pump.
You say you have a clean tank and lines but maybe a pos got from the return line into the tank and made it's way to the filter.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:04 AM
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I'm suspecting that too. Gas was siphoning out of the tank by just pulling the line and cleanly so its all clear and solid in there. Which is a relief. But back flow from the pump end was very dirty. And for it to pull hard once and then not, I'm thinking a pos got in there as well. But can't say for sure until I do more testing this weekend. Hoping it turns out to just be crap in a filter. Would be such a stupid yet simple problem...
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:43 PM
  #186  
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On the swap in my ZX I just ran the fuel pump on 12v all the time.
The manual says the switch to 9v at idle is only so the pump is quieter. Doesn't seem like it would hurt to have it on full power at all times. You have a return line.
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Old 01-06-2012, 02:54 PM
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So there are two switches on the relay?
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:30 PM
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That wouldn't make sense. It's a 76 relay. I just &ave the turbo.ecu fuel pump signal tied to the stock 76 relay/harness so.it should be either on or off full power
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:12 PM
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Now there's a clue. If the relay switches to 9 volts it might not be enough for the after market pump!
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:27 PM
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How does the 9v output work? This is the first I've heard of this on a 76
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:07 AM
  #191  
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And don't forget that harness is from a 78 too! Just to throw some more confussion in the mix!
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:09 AM
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Ahhhh Dammit. Lol.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:56 PM
  #193  
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Sorry, that info might be only for the 280ZX turbo... 1981-83.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:23 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by Bleach
Sorry, that info might be only for the 280ZX turbo... 1981-83.
No your right. The EFI harness is from an 82 ZXT and his body harness is from a 78. Darn car fire!
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:15 PM
  #195  
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So 11 days have come and gone, what's the verdict!
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:02 PM
  #196  
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a video is worth a million words... jaw dropping

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yR4UJ...ature=youtu.be





but yes when I go and set the camera on the outside that pull back the car leaned out again and dropped power. The fuel filters are clogging up again. Had that tank cleaned so well but maybe the lining is getting sucked up. idk... but at least I know what the problem is.

the day before this i short shifted 1st and left a 75ft patch of rubber on the ground in 2nd gear on the roll... and this is on stock electronics lolololololol... might need to get some real tunning capabilities in this car and see what she can really do. eats gas though, absolutely eats it...
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:46 PM
  #197  
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Yeah! About time.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:32 PM
  #198  
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Feels great when you finally kill that last bug. I say ft mpg. When you get a tune that will improve. You still have to burn X amount of gas per HP.
I've seen several cars get clogged from bad tank sealers. It comes off in globs.
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