7d82adz

hey everyone.. so im slowly working on my 71, its all original, but has nasty su carbs that need total rebuild.. car runs and drives, transmition and rear end all solid and works like it should.

now the question is.. do i want to refresh everything in the original carbed 2.4? or yank that motor out and install the rebuilt (never started, sitting motor, with n42 head. outve my 75 and install that?
that motor was supposively redone/built and then never started, and it sits in a rusty 75 outside to this day.

the 2.4 as it sits in my car has just came back to life this year, and was sitting since 89 prior to me working on it... it runs, but is very sluggish due to carbs, only can rev to about 4500 tops. it also starts hard, and sometimes stalls.

theramz

Ask yourself why would anyone go through the trouble of rebuilding a motor and never start it? A '71 with matching numbers on the block and body tag is worth more. SU carbs are easy to rebuild. You can have the motor rebuilt by pros for around $1000.

Lazlo

I thought that there was no such thing as "matching numbers" on 1st generation Z's?

7d82adz

sorry shouldve been more detailed on the motor in the 75.. that car, was parked due to having a weak structure due to heavy rust on underside..

ontop of that, the person working on it last seemed to be not bright in the electrical game. he hacked up harness and couple ecus, and coils, and other stuff were kicking inside the car when i bought it.

thats why the motor was never ran, because the "brain" of the car got messed up. its still all nice and painted and has new hoses. but its been sitting more than 5 years now and probly needs to be gone through again before running it.

i think im going to stick the the su's on the 71,, that way il have a nice stock running car to play with for the time being and will always have the option to change it up in the future if i wish to do so. .that motor in the 75 will be put to use someday im sure.

today i setup a service agreement with ztherapy, going to cost me around 650 all said and done.. but im thinking itl be worth it.. oh and 3 yr warranty is nice too.

theramz

On the ps of the block is a L24 + the serial number. It is also on the tag on the iner fender. FYI the vin# is stamped on the firewall at least on the earlyest cars. Not sure when they stopped. You have to look close but it is just behind the valve cover, at least on my "70.

Lazlo

You're right, I just checked my early 74 and the engine serial number matches what is on the fender tag, but it doesn't correspond to the chassis VIN.

On my 82, which I am sure is the original motor, the block SN does NOT match the firewall tag.

theramz

The chasis vin# is different that the engine bay tag. The number I mean is on the door tag, the dash tag and is stamped in larger letters on the face of the firewall. I'll check and take a pic. I will also check my other Zs.

theramz

I checked my cars and they all have the vin# stamped just above to the left of the brake booster. The engine bay tag has the engine # and the vin#.
Sorry for jacking your thread 7d82adz but very few people know about this. It's been so long I forgot where it was. I had to have the Sherrif verify the vin# and he was a little leary because plate tags can be replaced. When he saw the stamped letters he wrote it off so I could get a title.

theramz

Now that that's cleared up we can get back to your ride. In case you haven't noticed on ebay and cl Z cars are bringing much more cash now for just a rebuildable car. When you buy or sell you can prove "numbers matching".
If you want you can use the 280 crank, if the bearings are new you can drop the whhole thing in and have it bored to fit the pistons as well. You can have the valves put in the higher compression head you now have or just put he 280 head on if it's rebuilt.

7d82adz

yeah identifying the numbers and stamped areas on z's took me awile to learn where to find them and where to look..

on my 71, its stamped on the engine block just below the 5 and 6 cylinders, behind the brake booster, the badge plate on the inner fender, and lastly the vin number on driver side of dash.. if everything matches, you got a original car most likely.