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240Z, 260Z, 280Z Motor Swaps (non-V8) L28ET RB SR KA VG VQ 2JZ etc....

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Old 12-17-2010, 03:40 PM   #1
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Snw's OFFICIAL 280Z turbo build thread - SMPYWD!

well, I am thinking his car will be staying. I also have lots of pictures of the turbo setup now. And I will be getting some of the body really soon, it's all in primer and ready for paint, the engine is on a stand with the head removed and gaskets along with new piston rings will be on their way. So basically alot of stuff should be happening to it over the next month. So I decided it's time for a build thread.

Now for the go fast goodies... I think I have decided on a clocked position for the turbo and wastegate location.

With the compressor outlet clocked to point straight down I'll have enough room for both the intake and hotside charge pipe to clear, also, I then have a 1/4 inch (almost) clearance from the manifold and the turbo. It'll be tight. and this right now I am thinking is my best bet for a wastegate setup so as to eliminate excessive piping and bends. But that location isn't final yet. It will be atmospheric dumped by the way. Here are the pictures as of now, with much much more to come...

Ported exhaust manifold to match the gasket, surprisingly there was ALOT of material removed from here, ported and polished. Hurray for more flow = better spool!
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Finished porting and smoothing the intake manifold
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I'll get a pic of the intercooler it will revieve but here is the tial BOV that will vent it
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turbo setup just kinda mocked into place

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if you have any thoughts on that BOV placement or compressor clocking speak up, I definitely would like to hear them

barely clearing
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:41 PM   #2
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the down pipe on there as you may have notice I REALLY doubt will work, it just isn't angled good, it was for the S2000, i realllly want to just cut the welds on the 5 bolt flange and re-clock it because I'd save alot of money, but I just don't think there is ANY way to cut those welds. Any ideas? any gooood ideas... I have a feeling i'll just have to get a new flange and pipe with an 80 degree mandrel bend in it to start...
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Click the image to open in full size.

I'll see if there are any other pics I can grab
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:44 PM   #3
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Sorry for the closeups being blurry, damn macros on this camera BLOWS. couldn't find the good camera...
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:59 PM   #4
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this was the car when it first arived at the house

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all those Poly bushings are in the car now
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:02 PM   #5
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Now for updated pics that I just took

fenders:
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

restored seats
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the dash that came out of the car
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my spare dash
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I have this pretty good condition 240Z center console if anyone wants it needs cleaned and i think that is it. just very very dusty
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my 100% unrestored minst condition 280Z center console that will probably go into this car
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:09 PM   #6
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I have this tilton flywheel for the l28, the friction surface on it is old old old. and tilton no longer makes non-integral flywheels like this, sooooo anyone got any ideas haha. I need a new surface for it!!!
Click the image to open in full size.

cam is out, head is lying around somwhere, kinda want to port the head....
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piston rings!!!!
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these were retardedly cheap from the Zstore compared to the non turbo set, look it up it's ridiculous!

240Z bumpers that MAY go onto the 280Z
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front fascia for it, urethane, needs stripped and primered
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turbo harness ECU AFM oil pump and shaft coil igniter and dizzy
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difference between stock TB and my 240sx TB
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this is a 7 foot high by 20 foot long section of wall in my basement, EVERYTHING in this picture is all Z parts... from the floor to the ceiling.
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:13 PM   #7
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Now onto the good stuff, the current condition the Z is sitting in up on jack stands

the doors and hood
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the motor, getting ridge reemed at the time of this pic taken 20 mins ago
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:14 PM   #8
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the chassis! (it's gotten dusty, a little water on the black sealant and a rub down and it would sparkle!)
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:15 PM   #9
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the undercarriage
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:38 PM   #10
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Wow snow, good work! Looks like you have done alot with it. And you stole my idea. If I ever got a 280z. I was going to put 240z bumpers on it. Because I can't stand the original ones, that stick out. Where did you get this Z? And are you planning on keeping this one? Keep it up man.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:58 PM   #11
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well, my dad actually got it, came from some backwoods place in texas. I honestly havent done much of the prep work, i have been doing the turbo setup and the wiring, will be helping alot with the finishing paint and assembly, and helped alot with the undercarriage disassembly/reassembly and bushings. But yeah now that school is out i'll be putting alot more personal effort into the car overall and not just the turbo setup/engine. Hopefully I'll pull in a job soon cause I'd like to stick this on coil-overs and ZG flare it with some RB-R's and probably upgrade the T/C rods in the front. Maybe even get an LSD in the rear end to. but without a job, I don't even know how I got the TiAL wastegate and BOV and turbo and still have money for myself haha..
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:21 PM   #12
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You should smooth the transitions in the manifolds after you finish port matching it.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:29 PM   #13
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they are alot smoother than they look in the pics. It's the damn camera. I spent alot of time already making sure that there were no odd pits and ridges or uneven bores in it all. Unless you are talking about the outer lip of them?
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:11 PM   #14
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Nice! I like all the pics.

Is that an early 240Z console or the later one? I'm keeping my eye out for the series 1 console if I can find one at a cheap price. Someone replaced the console in my Fairlady Z with what I think is a 1972-73 console.
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:11 PM   #15
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I do believe it's a series 2... there is a difference in the center consoles? I knew there were subtle differences in the dash...

I do have a set of both round and flat top carbs though haha. somewhere..... well the flat tops you can see in the picture on the shelf
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:34 PM   #16
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Looking good snw
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:17 PM   #17
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I think the choke cable attachment is different on a series 1. I should look that up so I know what I'm looking for

I've got carbs. They are smaller than 240Z carbs since I'm running the L20. I'm going to keep them for their high performance JDMness. 115hp!
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:48 PM   #18
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No input on that tilton flywheel? I don't blame anyone I guess, cause I'm confused as **** about what to do with it... it needs a new surface! but dumbass tilton stopped making the replaceable surfaces, freaking asshats.

I hope that "possible" wastegate location works...

As for work today. all I did was cut off the EGR mount and welded it shut so now its an "EGR-less" N42 intake manifold. haha! and started to clean the manifolds, they are both actually in very good condition, just ***** *** dirty. I need another wire brush attatchment though to finish them. mine wore down...
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Old 12-20-2010, 04:01 PM   #19
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small update.

engine was scrubbed and painted. Alost finished honing the cylinder walls and re-ringing the pistons. Put back together. however i'll probably be pulling the pistons back out in a few days to double check the piston ring gap stagger, as well as get new rod bearings in there and ARP con rod bolts. yayyyy ARP!!!!

also considering ordering a kameari MLS hg and ARP head stud off ebay, looks like a company stocked up on them slightly a few sets available for 390 bucks or make an offer. if they accept my offer of 350 for the set I dont know how I could go wrong!. Or I may just pick up an Ishino HG and ARP head studs and call it a day... I also made a discovery today! any who pics

Click the image to open in full size.
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ok so here is my discovery, I notice that the front sway bar on this car looked a bit thicker than normal, so i measured it...
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thats right, 1 inch thick, aftermarket!!! haha, unfortunatly the rear is stock

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soooo small... so I decided to compare the measurments to my dads 75 280z that all he did was restore, never touched the sway bars on it other than cleaning them up
the fronts
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so they are stock, then I came across the rear....
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aftermarket!?!?! and hooooly ****, that's thick for a rear, who the hell makes a 1 inch thick REAR sway bar? only ones I have ever seen are 7/8 of an inch, any input on that one fellas?

and to end my escapade, I took a wire wheel grinder attachment across the manifolds

Click the image to open in full size.

looks better, nothing speciall though, but clean enough so I can see there aren't any hidden cracks in it anywhere. the big surprise was the intake manifold

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Click the image to open in full size.

god damn that thing sparkles, I definitely didnt expect it to shine so much... wonder if that's how blindingly bright they were from the factory haha...
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Old 12-20-2010, 04:08 PM   #20
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Nice work snw! I sure wouldn't mind a de-webbed intake for my 280zx. Sick man, keep up the good work!
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:24 PM   #21
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the de-webbed are easy to come by, the only tough ones to find are the egr-less, that's why I cut mine off and welded a plate over the back.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:24 PM   #22
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Gotcha...Do you have the Turbo intake de-webbed? Of course I wouldn't mind getting a Turbo, and an N/A one. I don't care if they are EGR less or not. I can do what you did, and make a block off plate. No big deal there.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:08 PM   #23
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No that is an N42 intake, so it was from an early 280Z with no webbing, but had an EGR. I had an 82 NA webbed manifold I cut the webbing out a while back, but I haaaated it, plus it stayed on my 260Z turbo. the turbo manifold I'll probably sell since it has all those turbo goodies on it that someone somewhere might want haha. or part it.

Also there isn't any difference in the turbo intake compared to an NA one other than all the stupid *** extra emissions junk that is on it. So stick with an NA one unless you ever get a turbo car. But even then, you can always loose all the extra garbage that is on a turbo manifold by switching to an NA one.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:37 PM   #24
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Here is an idea for the flywheel. Remove the insert and have it Blanchard ground on one side. If it goes below the surface of the aluminum you could have a machine shop make a new one or make a shim ring to go behind it.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:13 PM   #25
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hmmm, I never thought about having a machine shop make a new one... or even shimming it. So simple... yet so effective. Thanks for that haha. And yes it will go below an acceptable level if machined plat. It already has a little wear on some of the screw heads.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:13 PM
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